Three Latest and Best

Christmas Eve: OK, folks, let me say, there's just not much better than a group of excellent friends, fantastic wines, and food prepared with care and attention. From the trout rillettes with olives and spiced nuts (with pomegranate seeds, natch) to the rich roasted red pepper soup, from the elegant green beans with chestnuts in a maple syrup-Scotch whiskey sauce to the noble prime rib and finishing with a gorgeous almond pear tart. And not to leave out the wines (since this is the closest these Burg hounds will get to a Bordeaux dinner) which included our rock star 95 Cristal, the 94 Tudal and Rafanelli Cabs, and 91 Phelps Insignia. O holy night, indeed.

Bin 36: Popped up to Chicago for a few days of R&R and couldn't miss a trek to Bin 36, still one of my favorite stops for supper, especially when I'm on my own. The best of the night? The NV Szigeti sparkling Gruner Veltliner from the Bubbles flight-- fantastic in such a clean style. (The bottle I brought home didn't break the bank, either.) Paired with the "Sin City" cheese flight, these sparklers were perfect. A Petillant demi-sec Vouvray was paired with a Pierre Robert so rich, I fell in love instantly. Like *marriage* material. With a supper of pork belly and apples, the 2006 Dr. Loosen "Dr. L" Mosel-Saar-Ruwer was the star of the Riesling flight. I love how Bin 36 gives you take-home notes since I usually add my own. (Next to the 2007 Fitz-Ritter Pfalz Gewurtz Spatlese? "Pig Candy.")

New Year's Eve at L'explorateur: I was hoping for a different format than the seated, endless dinner of two-bite courses, but even still, Neal Brown's two-bite dishes are worth waiting for. We passed a lovely New Year's Eve at L'explorateur with fabulous wines, terrific friends, and my favorite escargot ravioli -- with the snails encased in huge pillows of pasta swimming in garlic and butter sauce. Lots of winter notes with apple, celery, and fennel joined simple pleasures like simple pork tacos. A delicious end -- and beginning to the year.

Beer, Yats, and Terra Madre!

Lots going on locally these days as the Fall weather settles in:

Need a Job in Beer? Louis Calli over at Vine and Table in Carmel has a position open for beer coordinator. (Hat tip to Hoosier Beer Geek)

Yat's on the Rise: Our own Yat's was named one of the top emerging chains to watch in the October issue of Restaurants and Institutions magazine. Joe has recently opened restaurants in W. Lafeyette and Chicago and plans 9 more locations in the next year for 15 total. Go, Joe! Spreading the chili cheese etouffee love. Other chains to watch included fro-yo shop Red Mango, Nashville's Bread and Company, Oklahoma City-based breakfast chain Jimmy's Egg, Bumblefish, Tilted Kilt, and Bolocco burritos. Love 'em or hate 'em, give Joe props for making a great concept work in these nutty times. (Hat tip to Wine Canine.)

Terra Madre Posts: Delegates from across Indiana will be heading to Torino, Italy this week for Terra Madre, the bi-annual, global gathering of chefs, farmers, and producers. Chef Thom England of Slow Food Indy will be updating us on the Slow Food Indy blog.

Friday Miscellany: Sonic, Cinnamon Rolls and COOL.

Lots going on what with a few openings (Hmmm. Tavern at the Temple perhaps?) and closings (another City Market vendor bites the dust). The press seems to be in full swing as well with end of year trends stories, hot ideas for next year, and the ongoing push for Sunday alcohol and cold beer sales. (Hello, Muncie!) In the spirit of wrapping up the week, check out these bits and pieces you might find of interest in the food world.

Rumors of Sonic's Demise May Be Premature: Peter Romeo at Nation's Restaurant News wants you to know that it was inappropriate for John McCain to call out Oklahoma-based Sonic as victim of the economic meltdown in a recent email to supporters:

In covering companies with financial problems—something Nation’s Restaurant News is doing with increasing frequency these days—we’re painstakingly careful not to suggest that a concern could be going under, unless of course it’s actually filed for bankruptcy. At the hint of a business failing, suppliers might deny credit, loans could be called, prospective franchisees could pass on a contract, landlords could choose another tenant, and new hires might decide to work elsewhere. It’s the business equivalent of declaring someone a criminal because suspicions have been raised.

More at The Scoop.

I Want These: Brioche Cinnamon Rolls -- just in time for cool weekend mornings. From What Geeks Eat.

Country of Origin Labeling: Chicago's COOL law went into effect this week requiring supermarkets to ensure that the source country of many foods including produce and meat is included on the label. It's an interesting idea but excludes the biggest possible offenders -- processed foods and butchers. Me? I want to know where my meat is coming from. More at The Stew.

SF, NYC, Chicago...and the Whole Darn Country

*The venerable Rubicon closes in SF and Nieporent discusses how SF and NYC diners differ. No surprise that in SF, eating is more of a ritual, only earlier. [Between Meals]

*Chipotle pledges to go local for produce...sort of. [Grub Street]

*Bourdain hits Chicago to film an episode of No Reservations. (All while Achatz is taking NYC by storm.) [The Stew]

*Southern Wine and Spirits and Glazers merge forming a super-national wine and spirits distributor. Will it change the industry? Jeff shares his vision for the future. [Good Grape]

My New Favorite Toy

Back from a quick day in Chicago and can report that The Drake is still great. At the Coq d'Or, their famous, red-leather-tufted old school lobby bar, bartenders serve G&T's with gin in a giant snifter, chilled with ice and presented with a seperate pitcher of tonic and dish of limes. You can make them as strong as you like. Ahh, so civilized.

While there, I bought myself a treat -- a Le Creuset terrine mold to go with Stephane Reynaud's newest cookbook, Terrine. So, what should I make first? Rabbit with Armagnac-soaked golden raisins, spices, pistachios, and hazelnuts? Veal sweetbreads with shallots, garlic, port, and bacon wrapped in smoked ham? Or even Duck, ginger and juniper berries? Maybe smoked salmon, lemongrass and red peppers? So much pork, so little time!

Buh-Bye, Bennigan's

It's no secret that the hardest hit restaurants in today's economic crunch have been the mid-range, casual chains. It was a business due for a shakout nationally and the national chain Bennigan's appears to have been one of the latest casualties. Independent franchise locations will remain open, but corporate-owned Bennigan's across the US like most of those throughout the Chicago suburbs are closed as of yesterday. (More from Chicago's CBS affiliate.)

Monday Morning with IRA and the Big Easy

*The newly named Indiana Restaurant Association holds their annual meeting and a 75th anniversary reception on August 12 in Michigan City. [Voice of Indiana Hospitality]

*The Times-Picayune starts reviewing restaurants again in New Orleans, a sign the southern city's food scene is back. [Between Meals]

*Spend a lot of time putting together a great grill-out? Why should the store-bought, white bread bun be the weakest link? The humble hamburger bun -- baked by you. [What Geeks Eat]

*Is Chicago over the Brazilian Steakhouse concept? Texas de Brazil, the Dallas-based Fogo de Chao clone gets one star from the Trib's Vettel. Two for ZED, a similar concept with more seafood options. [The Stew]

Weekend Update

First week in July is a slow restaurant week, but here are a few updates to hold you over:

Brothers Bar and Grill: Cory at IBJ's Property Lines has updated renderings of what Brothers Bar and Grill will look like when it opens in Broad Ripple later this fall.

Top Chef Steph: My pal, Joe Gray over at the Stew (from the Chicago Trib) reports that Chicago chef and recent Top Chef winner is blogging now so fans can keep up at Top Chef Steph.

What To Eat? Grub Street offers some fish alternatives in case you're giving salmon a rest during the Wild Salmon shortage. Halibut is great but will only be in season for a few more months. They suggest arctic char, as well.

Favorite Internet Meal Ever: OK, so I'm a sucker for a great fried chicken sandwich, and this on from What Geeks Eat one looks great. Not to mention the amazing slaw -- on the sandwich. Want.

Food and Wine Best New Chefs 2008

Food and Wine touts their annual list of Best New Chefs in the country in their July issue. While being named to this list in now way guarantees success, it's certainly a boost. In this year's case, it seems that several of those named have already been making a name for themselves including Koren Grieveson at Avec in Chicago and St. Louis' Gerard Craft. Here's the list. Plan your travels accordingly.

1. Jeremy Fox
Ubuntu, Napa

2. Tim Cushman
O Ya, Boston

3. Sue Zemanick
Gautreau’s, New Orleans

4. Ethan Stowell
Union, Seattle

5. Eric Warnstedt
Hen of the Wood, Waterbury, Vermont

6. Jim Burke
James, Philadelphia

7. Koren Grieveson
Avec, Chicago

8. Gerard Craft
Niche, St. Louis

9. Michael Psilakis
Anthos, New York City

10. Giuseppe Tentori
Boka, Chicago

Monday Morning Ketchup! Gunthorp in Pictures

Many of you have seen this already, but don't miss this month's Chicago magazine and an ode to Indiana's own Gunthrop Farms. Gunthorp is a flagship product at The Goose and it's starting to show up on a few restaurant menus in town. Mmmm. Pork chops. (Plus, great photography! Pigs never looked so good.) [via the Goose blog]

Top Chef Finale Tonight!

Hey, kids, don't forget tonight is the night we find out who will be the new Top Chef! (Bravo, 10:00 p.m.) Will it be uber-excellent calm-in-the-kitchen Richard Blaise or everybody's new favorite Chicago home town girl Stephanie? Or will angry Lisa pull a surprise upset? Stephanie will chat live with Joe Gray at The Tribune tomorrow win or lose.

What's your prediction?

James Beard Winners Announced

As most have heard by now, Chicago's own Grant Achatz of Alinea was named outstanding chef at Sunday night's James Beard Awards ceremony in NYC. Most reports have covered outstanding restaurants and new chefs. Here are a few races that I've been following:

*Outstanding Pastry Chef: Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson, Tartine Bakery in SF.

*Outstanding Wine Service: Eleven Madison Park, NY

*Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional: Terry Theise, Terry Theise Estate Selections, Silver Spring, MD

*Outstanding Service: Terra, St. Helena, CA

*Best Great Lakes Chef (our division): Carrie Nahabedia, Naha, Chicago

*Best Chef Midwest: Adam Siegel, Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro, Milwaukee

And props to one of my favorites of the year for Cookbook of the Year: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's The River Cottage Meat Book.

Full list.

More coverage:
New York Times [Diner's Journal]

Frank Bruni's Monday Morning Quarterbacking [Diner's Journal]

James Beard Awards Justify Excessive Afterparties [Grub Street]

Achatz/Nahabedian Grab Top Honors [ChiTrib's The Stew]

Bret Thorn's Beard Awards '08 [NRN Food Writer's Diary]

Schaefer's Wines for Sale

Well-known Skokie wine store Schaefer's Wines, Foods & Spirits is for sale. It's been in the family for 72 years and is the second major wine business to change hands in a year. Sams Wines & Spirits was sold last May. [The Stew]

Chicago Repeals the Foie Gras Ban

This afternoon, the Chicago city council voted 37-6 to repeal the two-year old ban forbidding restaurants and stores to sell fatted goose liver -- foie gras. Like so many issues, this one ultimately is less about the gourmet delicacy and more about whether or not it's OK for a city to try to dictate what its citizens should or shouldn't eat.

The debate began more than two years ago when Chicago super-chef Charlie Trotter declared he'd no longer serve the controversial product in his restaurants. Many animal activists feel ducks and geese are force fed in inhumane conditions while others in the restaurant industry have observed conditions first-hand and disagree. (Compared to an average Tyson chicken, foie gras birds live an incredible life of comfort.) Others, like PETA, fought for foie gras bans as it became apparent that politicizing food could be a strong tactic in a "fight small but visible fights" strategy. They were successful on securing state-wide bans on production for California and New York set to take affect in the next few years. Led by Alderman Joe Moore and advocated by visible PETA celebrities (but not many Chicago residents), the council approved the ban in an omnibus package of other regulations and bills two years ago.

Since then, the ban has become a running joke in the food world, much to the blustering chagrin of chefs like Trotter who spoke out in favor. City officials reported that anonymous tips were a regular occurrence when foie showed up as a secret special in a restaurant. Enforcement authorities did little about it only writing a handful of tickets. The point of mockery, though, had little to do with foie gras itself, and more to do with the idea that a city council thought that a ban wouldn't be a big deal if it only a affected a gourmet few. We're not talking about transfats, something horribly detrimental to the health of a community. Foie gras is an expensive delicacy and many perceived it would only be of interest to only a few rich, fancy eaters.

In the end, it's fitting that Chicago's ban should be repealed with so little fanfare. New York and Philadelphia both tried to get their own efforts off the ground but with no luck. The foie gras issue had become far more time consuming than city fathers figured -- how could banning something so few people ate or enjoyed end up as such a controversy? You may be tired of the discussion around here, but the point is a broader one. (I'd have just as many complaints if I only talked about molecular gastronomy or Michael Carlson's food.)

Score one for the eaters today. Go to Tallent and have Dave's daily preparation of fois gras. Stop in at L'ex and have Neal sear it delicately. Or pop in to the Goose and buy a lobe whole. This is a day for food lovers to savor and enjoy. Appreciate that Chicagoans can now zoom down to Fox and Obel for their fix, legally. And be thankful that whether or not it's a food you like, it's legal to eat. This is a day to celebrate and remember we can eat freely.

Will Chicago Overturn the Foie Gras Ban Today?

The Chicago Trib is reporting that Chicago Alderman Thomas Tunney says he has the votes needed to force a vote and overturn the citywide ban on foie gras. Even better, he says he'll do it today. Joe Moore, the alderman who drove the ban last year, said he think's it's a waste of time to bring the issue up again. Tunney -- who is also close to Mayor Daley -- says it's way overdue.

The ban was passed in April 2006 by a 48-1 vote. But Tunney noted Tuesday that there was no discussion of the measure on the council floor before the vote. The ban was passed in an "omnibus" vote at the end of a meeting, packaged together with other ordinances considered to be routine.Council members have publicly mulled repealing the measure since September 2006, when the mayor said he would support such a move. Some aldermen said the ordinance had made Chicago a laughingstock.

Live video from the City Council meeting via Trib.

New Yorker Profiles Achatz

Interesting profile of Grant Achatz in the New Yorker this week including the revalation that he completely lost his sense of taste in his cancer treatment at the end of last year. (It's slowly returning but could take up to a year.) Lots of interesting information on the science of taste and the realities of his options if his cancer returns.

Plus, the Sun Times tells us Terrance Brennan and Artisinal (among other nationally known chefs) are opening projects in Chicago soon. I know a lot of cheese lovers who will be happy to make the pilgramage to an outpost of Artisinal. (hat tip to Grub Street)

St. Elmo Makes Top 100 Highest Grossing Independents List

Restaurants and Institutions magazine just released their top 100 list, and while restaurants in the Top 10 are solidly in the $20-30 million range, check out our own St. Elmo Steakhouse at number 47 -- with a reported gross of $13,449,305. (Up from the $11.3 million reported in 2005 by the IBJ in their top grossing city restaurant rankings.) Some other stats on St. Elmo?

’07 sales: $13,449,305

Avg. dinner check: $74.08

Meals served: 181,550

Seats: 320 dining; 40 bar

Other notables on the top 100 list:
#6 -- DC's Old Ebbit Grill ($22,851,237 with an average dinner check of $24.00, and 800,000 meals served -- that's some turn! Also, 152 years old.)

#7 -- Gibson's Bar Steakhouse in Chicago ($20,846,253, with an average check of $35.95) Gibson's in Rosemont makes #22 on the list. Hugo's Frog Bar and Fish House (Gibson's version of Harry and Izzy's for overflow) makes #31 on the list.

#45 -- The Grand Central Oyster Bar in all it's cheesy, 70s glory -- and still a great meal.

#62 -- Shaw's Crab House in Chicago clocks in at $12.5 million

#69 -- Harry Caray's Restaurant in Chicago at $12.2 million.

and both Montgomery Inn at the Boathouse and the Montgomery Inn in Cincinnati clock in at 81 and 100 respectively making them to top two grossing rib joints in the US.

If you're looking for quality over quantity, then check out San Pelligino's annual Top 50 Best Restaurants in the World list. El Bulli and Fat Duck top the list with the French Laundry and Per Se coming in at 5 and 6. Other US restaurants named to the top 50 list were Jean Georges at 17, Le Bernardin at 20, Chicago's Alinea at 21, Chez Panisse at 37, Charlie Trotter's at 38, and Daniel at 41. A few US restaurants also made teh bottom 50 -- still good -- including Nobu New York (ranked 52), Masa (ranked 54), WD-50 (ranked 63), and the US L'Atelier Joel Robuchon (ranked 85). (The US-MGM Robuchon outpost also makes the top 10 but is listed differently, as if MGM is its own country. Full list is here. Makes for great travel planning! (all via Gut Check)

Food and Wine Announces Best New Chefs 2008

Look for Food and Wine's "Best New Chefs" issue coming soon. The magazine announced the chosen 10 yesterday. Notables in the Region include one St. Louis and two Chicago chefs (including Koren Gieveson of Avec, yea!) They all partied down in NYC last night to celebrate with chefs Daniel Boulud and Tom Colicchio:

Gerard Craft, Niche, St. Louis, MO

The chef and owner of Niche and the adjoining Veruca Bakeshop & Café, Gerard Craft, 28, began his career washing dishes in a pool hall in Salt Lake City. His love of cooking led him to take a job at Bistro Toujours, one of the city’s top restaurants, under Bryan Moscatello (a Best New Chef 2003). Craft held positions at Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles under Mohammad Islam and the Metropolitan in Salt Lake City under Perry Hendrix. He moved to St. Louis in 2005 to open Niche, which is in a converted warehouse in the Benton Park area. Menu standouts are a “Bacon and Eggs” sandwich of braised pork belly, buttery brioche and an oozing poached egg.

Koren Grieveson, Avec, Chicago, IL

Influenced by the cuisine of Europe’s wine regions, South African-born chef Koren Grieveson, 36, helped launch the wine bar Avec in October 2003 with her mentor, chef Paul Kahan (a Best New Chef 1999). Grieveson, who lived in Angola, Iran, England and Brazil as a child, was a caterer for the entertainment industry and a solider in the United States Army for nine years before attending the Culinary Institute of America. Prior to opening Avec she worked with Kahan for five years as sous chef at his restaurant Blackbird and also worked at San Francisco’s Aqua under chef Michael Mina.

Giuseppe Tentori, Boka, Chicago, IL

As a boy, Giuseppe Tentori helped out on his grandmother’s farm in a small town outside of Milan. At the age of 19, while at Antica Osteria la Rampina in Milan, he was invited by chef Gabriel Viti (a Best New Chef 1991) to work at Carlos’ in Highland Park, Illinois. He went on to become sous chef at the Metropolitan in Salt Lake Cityand chef de cuisine at Chicago’s Charlie Trotter’s before becoming executive chef at Boka in March 2007. Tentori, 35, has created an innovative menu revolving around seasonal squid stuffed with baby spinach, spicy pineapple and black tapioca.

Michael Carlson Reopens Schwa in Chicago

"How you cats doing tonight?" And so begins a new chapter in this now-famous Chicago restaurant's history. Last week, the Tribune ran a huge feature on Chef Michael Carlson who abruptly closed Schwa, his tiny but incredible eatery, last October on the day after serving dinner to 20 of the worlds top chefs, restaurateurs, and writers (including Charlie Trotter, Ferran and Albert Adria, Wylie Dufresne, Thomas Keller, Michael Ruhlman, and others.) Carlson, a Trio-alum and named one of the best new chefs in the US by Food and Wine in 2006, had apparently just had it. He cancelled reservations and took four months off to be with his family. The good news? Schwa re-opened last week and early reports are the food is better than ever. Don't forget -- if you can get in, it's BYOB. They don't have a liquor license.

More from the James Beard Nominations

Digging deeper into the long list of James Beard Award nominees, there are a few more closer to home that might be of interest to Indianapolis folks.

Best Restaurateur: Along with the Mario Batalis, Laurent Tourdels and Wolfgang Pucks, there were also Larry and Richard D'Amico. They have six restaurants in Minneapolis (including D'Amico and Sons and Masa) but some Indianapolis folks may know them by their popular restaurants in Naples, FL --the southern outposts of their Minneapolis restaurants Campiello and Cafe' Lurcat and Bar Lurcat.

Odd, but true. Steven Ells, CEO of the Denver-based Chipotle Mexican Grill chain was nominated.

Best Chef -- Great Lakes. More from the category which includes Indiana, Illinois, Michigan, and Ohio. A few additional competitors (including our own Steve Oakley and Dave Tallent) include Graham Elliot Bowles (Avenues, Chicago), Jean-Robert de Cavel (John-Robert at Pigall's, Cincinnati), James Sommerville (The Lark, W. Bloomfield, Michigan), and, of course, Michael Symon (Lola, Cleveland).

Best Chef -- Southern Region: Also close to home, Louisville chefs received three nods including Todd Richards (Oak Room), Edward Lee (610 Magnolia), and Jim Gerhardt (Limestone). The Oak Room also picked up a nomination in the Best Service category.

Outstanding Restaurant: Only two Chicago nominees this year in this particular category: Arun's and Spiaggia. (But it's an odd representation, the SF nominees in this category are Green's, Slanted Door, and Boulevard, an odd combo of choices.) Of course, Grant Achatz (Alinea) was nominated for Outstanding Chef as was Sanford D'Amato (Sanford) in Milwaukee, and Jean Joho of Chicago's Everest.

Best Pastry Chef: This one's a national award and a competitive category since it includes the NY and West Coast competition. But notable is one Chicago chef, Mindy Segal (Hot Chocolate) and the pastry chef from one of my favorite Dallas institutions, La Duni -- Dunia Borga.

Outstanding Wine Service: Bin36 of Chicago shows up on this list, as it should. For you wine geeks who get out a bit, also nominated were Slanted Door (San Francisco) and Vidalia (Washington DC), River Cafe (Brooklyn), and Aureole (Las Vegas).

Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional: This group looks like a very tough category with sommeliers from almost every major restaurant entry nominated, but representin' for the midwest: Julian Van Winkle (of Pappy Van Winkle in Louisville) and Anthony Terlato of the Terlato Wine Group in Lake Bluff, IL.

Best New Restaurant: Must have opened in 2007. Nominated nationally: Basa (Louisville), Table 45 (Cleveland), Rue Domaine (Dayton), Dante (Cleveland). And as personal faves, Dean Fearing's new place in Dallas -- Fearing's -- and SPQR in San Francisco.