Terra Madre, Cooking Classes and Rare, Old Wine

Terra Madre Updates: Check out Slow Food Indy for daily reports from Chef Thom England on the Terra Madre conference and Salon de Gusto. Many of our delegates are finding that for once, Indiana is helping lead the local food movement.

Crash Cooking Courses: CIA-Hyde Park alum Chef Ron Harris of Locally Grown Gardens is offering a number of cooking classes in November to help get you up-to-speed for Thanksgiving.

Le Cirque's Wine Auction: Nov. 17, NYC's famed Le Cirque will hold an auction of some its top old growth wines. NYwines and Christies will sell rare bottles of châteaux Margaux, Petrus and Yquem to help free up space in cellars and budget for new wine investment. More from Maccioni at Food Writers' Diary.

Indianapolis: More Cool Dining Trends

So, the other day, Indy.com calls me and asks about dining trends. (Check out Is Indy Cool for my answers.) They were already wed to dining in the dark which was pretty much over by the time CSI did an episode on it two years ago. But, I love the street vendor cart idea (Hello, King David Dogs?) and, as usually happens, thought of a few others after I talked to the fabulous Jenny Elig. What cool dining trends could work in Indianapolis?

* Prix fixe menus: Just today, Michael Bauer at the SF Chron has a blog post on how popular fixed price menus are becoming. They help a restaurant control costs and run a better operation, and if you love food and the chef, give you some treats they might not normally serve.

* One-night-only restaurants: Right now, the hottest reservation in New York is Tom: Tuesday Dinner. Tom Collichio wanted to open a small NY-style restaurant but the economics didn't work, so he's opening his own "restaurant" once every two weeks in the private dining room at Craft. He's blocked out every other Tuesday until the end of this year and will serve dinner for 40 at $150-$250 per person. It's brilliant, really. In a world where so many of our best chefs are successful because they can run great restaurants and teach staff to recreate their dishes, it's even more alluring to have those same great chefs actually cooking as if they ran a small neighborhood joint. Think this would work here? You bet it would. Get Greg Hardesty or Karl Benko into a restaurant kitchen doing dinner a couple of nights a month, put the word out, and watch the reservations board light up! (Collichio posts his menu on the website when it's ready.)

* Izakaya: I'm still waiting for someone to execute izakaya -- the original Japanese salaryman bar concept. Sakes, beer, sushi, small plates, in a casual Japanese-style pub environment. What's not to like?

Unlike some of the commenters over at Indy.com, I don't think these trends haven't wondered to Indy because we Midwesterners want something of substance. I think it's yet another symptom in our somewhat stagnant food scene. Nothing's going to change if we, the food lovers, don't demand better from our chefs and restaurants. Come on, people! Let's get creative -- what are some other hot -- and smart -- food trends we should be seeing in Indianapolis?

SF, NYC, Chicago...and the Whole Darn Country

*The venerable Rubicon closes in SF and Nieporent discusses how SF and NYC diners differ. No surprise that in SF, eating is more of a ritual, only earlier. [Between Meals]

*Chipotle pledges to go local for produce...sort of. [Grub Street]

*Bourdain hits Chicago to film an episode of No Reservations. (All while Achatz is taking NYC by storm.) [The Stew]

*Southern Wine and Spirits and Glazers merge forming a super-national wine and spirits distributor. Will it change the industry? Jeff shares his vision for the future. [Good Grape]

James Beard Winners Announced

As most have heard by now, Chicago's own Grant Achatz of Alinea was named outstanding chef at Sunday night's James Beard Awards ceremony in NYC. Most reports have covered outstanding restaurants and new chefs. Here are a few races that I've been following:

*Outstanding Pastry Chef: Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson, Tartine Bakery in SF.

*Outstanding Wine Service: Eleven Madison Park, NY

*Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional: Terry Theise, Terry Theise Estate Selections, Silver Spring, MD

*Outstanding Service: Terra, St. Helena, CA

*Best Great Lakes Chef (our division): Carrie Nahabedia, Naha, Chicago

*Best Chef Midwest: Adam Siegel, Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro, Milwaukee

And props to one of my favorites of the year for Cookbook of the Year: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall's The River Cottage Meat Book.

Full list.

More coverage:
New York Times [Diner's Journal]

Frank Bruni's Monday Morning Quarterbacking [Diner's Journal]

James Beard Awards Justify Excessive Afterparties [Grub Street]

Achatz/Nahabedian Grab Top Honors [ChiTrib's The Stew]

Bret Thorn's Beard Awards '08 [NRN Food Writer's Diary]

Top Chef Goodies

**Ted Allen says he's back from Puerto Rico where they've just filmed the finale for the current season of Top Chef. That's one way to keep the winner under wraps. The Chicago Trib's food blog, The Stew, reports that the episode where the final four chefs will compete airs June 4. Finale airs June 11. (Updated with clarification from the fine folks at The Stew.)

**Metromix pops in to the New York open auditions for Top Chef this week to give us a sample of future chef-testants (I love the guy who has auditioned for everything including Hell's Kitchen twice.) Some good caliber chefs coming through and this is just a small sample.

**Rumors are swirling about next season's location. It is supposed to be in New York, but a few folks are speculating it might be Toronto if NYC proves too expensive or presents production problems. Mmmm. Au Pied au Cochon! Poutine! Foie gras in a can!

Duke's Mixture: Zing Goes the ... Oh, Whatever

Country Kitchen Love: Obama goes upscale for church at St. Luke's and downscale for lunch at College Avenue's famous Country Kitchen. Gimme some of that old time religion. [via Indieats]

Natural? Whatev': A deceptive marketing lawsuit bites Pinkberry in its all natural yogurt butt. Emulsifiers, Acidifiers, and fillers! Delicious. [via NYT Diner's Journal]

Grinding Your Own: Just another reason why I'm in love with my spice grinder. Home toasted and blended is always better than Penzey's. [from What Geeks Eat]

Zing! Um...Okay: Renovations proceed on the former Peyton's Place building on Indiana Ave (at West). Owner says it will be "five-star quality" and open by July 1. Just...Can't...Say... It. [via DIG-B]

Of Wine, and Water...and Coffee

From my favorite St. Louis food blog, Gut Check, Master Court of Wine Advanced Sommelier Chris Hoel has accepted a job with Keller at The French Laundry. Some of you wine folks may know Chris as he's one of St. Louis' two Advanced sommeliers from the Master Court.

Starbucks has a brand new bag...of coffee. Yesterday, they launched a new blend, Pike's Place blend (named after the famed market in Seattle) with a smoother taste than their other brewed coffees. (So says the WSJ.)

Talk about capitalizing on the "greening of America", several hot spots in NYC (including the Waverly Inn) are 86ing bottled water -- especially imported waters -- from their menus. Not sure where they're going to get the same mark ups/margins on tap, but they're getting good press out the ban. Other credible NYC spots like Per Se use high-end filtration systems for standard water service and offer other bottled options at no charge. (NYP via Grub Street)

Michelin, Meatpaper, and Food Trivia!

Michelin Ratings Out in NYC: The 2nd edition of the NYC Michelin ratings debuted yesterday. Gordon Ramsey picks up two stars for his NYC effort (Gordon Ramsey at the London) which isn't too shabby considering most Americans know him for his ability to yell on Hell's Kitchen. With his seemingly full-time appearances on BBC and US versions of Kitchen Nightmares, it's a true sign of talent that he can find great people, instill in them his sense of excellence, and garner multiple stars on two continents. In the meantime, as Bruni points out, Michelin seems to love all things Jean-Georges. Plus, Craft loses a star? Maybe Colicchio needs to pick up some tips about multi-tasking from Ramsey as everyone wonders the obvious -- is his gig on Top Chef and opening a new Craft in LA a factor?

Meatpaper Debuts: The first issue of Meatpaper, the magazine about the art and ideas of meat, is in bookstores now. Meatpaper announced it's debut issue earlier this year, but even I couldn't imagine what a wonderland of stories on beef, pork, and other...meats...this would be. Beautiful *and* delicious. This issue includes a pig slaughter in Italy, essays on eating strange meats, meat as visual art, and meatopolis!

Foodie Fight Trivia Game: Here's the throwdown: Four top foodies in town. One evening of throwdown. The stakes? The Champion of Food Knowledge! And now we can do it -- Foodie Fight, a new trivia game from Chronicle Books, is the mother of food specific knowledge. My money is on Kirts -- at least, I want him on my team. (Via Slashfood)

Wine Wednesday -- One Ounce Pours

For those of you who read a few food blogs, you'll know that many of them post on wine topics on Wednesdays (called surprisingly enough Wine Wednesday, ha ha.) So, since it's Wednesday, here are a few small pours in honor of the nobel vino.

The Bison Business: OK, so it's not wine, but Marion Burros touts her NY Times piece on bison at Diner's Journal. Lots of local butchers sell a lot of Indiana bison on advice of cardiologists. If you like steak, but have cholesterol issues, you might give the noble buffalo a try. I know Kinkaid's carries it most days and if Joe Lazzara doesn't have it, he can get it. (Joe can get anything.) What wine to drink with your buffalo steak? I'd recommend a nice, rich Zinfandel, I think.

Stale Wine for Sale? With the proliferation of wine bars and large wine-by-the-glass lists, have you ever sent a glass back? I have -- and I think more people should since there's just no way a bar or restaurant with a sizable by-the-glass list can keep an opened bottle fresh. Sure, they pump them out or use nitrous systems, but even then, it's not fool-proof. I think Bauer (and his commenters) make an excellent point. Wine makers take the rap for bad wine (when it's really an oxidized glass) and some bars rake in the cash with customers who don't know any better. Join the revolution. Send back wine-by-the-glass that's past its prime. (And speaking of stale, yes, I know this post is *weeks* old. Luckily, it didn't oxidize as fast as that two-day old grocery store pinot noir they're selling you for $10.)

State Fair Wine Judging: In case you're wandering around the state fair this week or weekend, stop in a take a gander at the wines judged for the Indy International Wine Competition. (They're locked up in a case in the same building that features the flower show and the honey ice cream.) It's difficult to tell by their display how the categories and rankings fell, but you'll see the grand champion for both the international and Indiana wines. No surprise that Oliver did well. Jeff at the Good Grape has an interesting post on the competition and judging criteria.

Want: The Wine Pouch with a Handle! Really, what more can be said except for Thank You, South Africa! Wine, in a pouch, portable, with a spigot. It's like a giant Capris Sun juice pouch for grown ups (minus the annoying straw)! And as long as the wine is good and preserved well, I'll drink it out of almost anything. Really, how great would this be for coolers, boating, and picnics (think Symphony on the Prairie!) All I want to know is how long until Nolan and Bill can get us some! (Via Dr. Vino.)

Cipriani Groups' Liquor License Revoked? And also via the good Doctor, some reports tell us the New York state alcoholic beverage board may go after the famous restaurant group's liquor license. Screw Cipriani Soho, I'm worried about the Rainbow Room! (From the Herald Trib)

Per Se

So I was able to spend the weekend down in New York City. The highlight of the trip was dinner at Thomas Keller's Per Se. This is a restaurant that is regarded by many as the best place in the United States. Without a doubt it could be.

Unfortunately because it is in high demand, the only table I could get was at 10 PM on Sunday. We usually eat dinner late, so it was fine. The minute you enter the restaurant your eyes are filled with the opulence of the place. There were 6 foot wide bouquets of cherry blossoms in several corners of the dining room. Each table was table scaped with spotless white china, sparkling silver and centerpieces of fresh hydrangea. As we entered the Maitre d' New my name (I had not met the person before) and whisked us away to our table. I was surprised to see several other tables arrive at 10 PM also. This was the 6th seating that day including 3 for lunch.

The menu changes every day, but you only have two choices when you go. Would you like the 9 course chef's tasting menu or the 9 course vegetable tasting menu. My girlfriend and I got the veg tasting and our friend had the chef's tasting. This way we could all three see the full menu and taste everything. What an experience.

After all the extra course the chef had sent out, we ate 17 course in 4 hours. Yes, if you are doing the math, that means we finished dinner at 2 in the morning.

Ironically Chef Leroux had talked about Per Se in class the day before. He was talking about how restaurants get ratings and what actually sets them apart. All the cooking techniques are the same as those used in non-rated places. Everyone in the classroom could make everything that was served at Per Se. The difference is the overall experience...The view, the first class tableware, the silent service.

I took chef the Menu on Tuesday morning. After he looked at it and saw the price at the bottom he went into the same lecture..."why pay that for a meal when you can make the same thing yourself." Chef, sometimes I want to be wow'ed by someone else. Thank you Per Se for Wow'ing me!

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