Three Latest and Best

Bouillabaisse at Meridian: Lesson number 1: Always listen to your waiter's specials. It's winter, and Chef Dan Dunville has been playing around with the hearty classics. Last week? The Bouillabaisse -- full of mussels and that rich tomato broth loaded with spices (and crusty bread at the bottom of the bowl, natch.)

Lobster Mac and Cheese at Capital Grille: You know you've got a problem when you refuse to split. Four people? Four orders of lobster mac and cheese. Hey! Get your own!

Veal Cannelloni at Capri: Even still, Capri is one of those neighborhood eateries where you're likely to run into neighbors, relatives, and old friends, especially on Saturday nights when everyone ventures out for Italian-American comfort food. I was tempted by the osso bucco, but the veal canneloni hit the spot -- loaded with sauce and cheese it made winter just a little further away.