Nuvo Readers Love Famous Steak

Ack! My eyes! It's the annual Nuvo Dining Guide and as usual, the reader picks (which they've reprinted from last month's "Best Of..." guide) are enough to make my eyes bleed. St. Elmo's wins in three categories? Come on, people. If you only spend the money to go to one fine-dining restaurant a year, please don't waste it on St. Elmo's. Seemingly the only high-end restaurant Nuvo readers patronize, St. Elmo's swept best upscale restaurant, best steak house, and best wait staff. Please. Better steak? Ruth's Chris. Better space? Mo's. Better service? Capitol Grille. Wacky experience? Fogo! Don't get me wrong, they've built a great brand and the tourists have to eat somewhere. But is St. Elmo's, and its overflow little brother Harry and Izzy's, the best we have to offer? Not by a long shot.

I supposed we should be content that the Oceanaire has finally displaced Red Lobster as the reader choice for "best seafood".

Three Latest and Best

Bar Snacks at Harry & Izzy's: Maybe it was the second bottle of wine. Maybe it was the delightful company including Arthur Black and wine blogger Jeff Lefevere. Either way, that perfectly fried calimari with the sweet spicy sauce hit the spot. Also, crunchy sesame crusted chicken fingers with a salty, gingery crust. As bar food goes, perfect.

Sweet Chili Mussels at Meridian: OK, I admit it, I was expecting the more traditional preparation when it came to mussels, but these sweet, chili-laced beauties are a delightful surprise. The thick, rich sauce works its way into the meat of these little goodies. Bonus, the huge chunk of garlic bread soaking up sauce at the bottom of the bow. (And they bring you a hot towel after your mussel orgy. These people think of everything.)

Fanstastic Wines at The Oceanaire: Speaking of wines, we recently mined the list for some good ones at The Oceanaire. My favorites? A Domaine Roger Champault sancerre rouge and a Pasanau Priorato. Red, spicy, and still dry. Delicious.

Indianapolis Airport Food

Cory at Property Lines reports that quite a number of local restaurants have signed deals for the new airport including Patachou (which had been announced) Harry and Izzy's and Scholar's Inn. Harry and Izzy's will take 3000 square feet for their new venture. With the sheer number of local eateries the airport is brining in, it would be interesting to know, from a business perspective, how they're making this happen. Many of these restaurants are not equipped to run a second location, so are they partnering? Licensing their brands? Operating on a food stand basis? Sending food out to a third party? It can work, but it will be interesting to see how it's being executed. Local food and brands can be a great idea. I fly through Memphis often and try to eat BBQ in the Northwest terminal whenever I can. Even though the experience with plastic plates and knives isn't as pleasant as it would be at the original location, it's so much better than TGI Fridays, the ubiquitous Cheers, or the airport Puck's. Indy is more of a destination airport than a hub so it will be interesting to see if traffic can sustain, long term, this many branded eateries.

If the comments are any indication, it sounds like a fair number of restaurant owners are excited about the possibilities.

Three Latest and Best

Michael Paley's Proof: On a recent trip to Louisville to tour the 21C gallery, we stopped off for a drink and nosh at Proof on Main. This trendy eatery would look just as at home in NYC or Chicago and the menu offered a fresh and welcome change. In the bar, while sipping unusal cocktails (mine, a "Sweet Tea" with green tea vodka, chambord, and muddled basil), we snacked on housemade pates as well as a quartet of unique vegetable spreads. The star? The green pea and mint puree with pancetta (although the grilled fennel with orange was pretty damn good, too.) Perfect for Louisville in the summer.

Prime Rib Sammich at Harry and Izzy's: While I'm not wild about Harry's (and I'm sure Harry's not wild about me), I am learning to find a few things to appreciate. Over lunch, I took the opportunity to try the highly recommended burger -- and I agree! Finally, a great steakhouse offering! And while opinions differ, I liked my friend's prime rib sandwich even better. More like really juicy roast beef (bordering on fatty) with au jus and horseradish, I'll get my own order next time.

Smoked Jack from Trader's Joes: Nothing says love like the cheese case at Trader Joe's. And my latest infatuation? The smoked jack cheese black on the outside with a slightly burned flavor. Great melted on French bread and really great just eaten in thin slices while waiting for dinner.

Two-Minute Warning: Yes, I know. I had no business going to La Jolla to begin with. I *know* the food is terrible! But the weather was so nice and we were so tempted by that big see-and-be-seen open deck in Broad Ripple that I thought I could stand it. (I go through this *every* year.) However, you'd think I would have learned long ago that getting what you want (say, a Barbie Dreamhouse or an ice cream maker) isn't always everything it's cracked up to be. And somehow, even knowing I hate everything at La Jolla, I returned, thinking that maybe this one time, I'll find something that doesn't suck. Alas, not this time. The drinks? Famously weak. The food? Notoriously horrible. Salsa? Straight from the jar. And the chips? Stale as a week old loaf of bread. When we asked our waiter if they had any other chips, his answer? They're all this bad. (Dude, how is it possible that they're all stale if they're coming fresh out of a bag or warmer each time you bring them to my table? Shouldn't they at least be fresh for half an hour even in this humidity? Don't answer. I think I already know.) After our meal and two margaritas, I left sunburned, buzzless and having learned my lesson for another year.

Three Latest and Best

Hey, kids, I know I've been scarce around here lately but it's not been for a lack of food coverage. It's been because of too much! I'll be able to say more later, but in the meantime, here's my version of simplicity, the summer three latest and best!

Coconut Shrimp at Ruth's Chris: Shrimp at a steakhouse you say? Well, hey, I love happy hour menus. My current fave comes crispy and sweet with orange marmalade. Mmmmm.

The Bitch is Back: Sure, I broke up with Pizza Hut for a while miffed over my lost order, but when a relationship is that good, you just can't stay way. You, yes you, thin crust, you are my true romance.

Steak at a Kitchen Table: In my recent travels (or travails, whichever you prefer), I've been lucky enough to be welcomed into the home of some of the best beef producers in the state. I've had some fantastic steaks but I have to give special props to Diana Fischer, wife of Dave Fischer of Fischer Farms. (Fischer is arguably the state's top small producer of natural, corn-finished beef served locally at The Oceanaire and Elements.) Diana made us the most simple and delicious lunch this week and it was one of the best steaks I've had in a year. So good and cooked so perfectly that the back of my mouth is watering again as I type. I couldn't leave her out of this week's Three Latest and Best.

Two-Minute Warning: Dear Harry and Izzy's, I know we didn't go out very many times -- three or four dates, but it's time to decide whether or not to take our relationship to the next level. Frankly, I'm just not that interested. I never really felt like you were trying to make an effort to win me over. Maybe you did really try, but the honest truth? You're boring. Sorry, there, I said it. Your food is merely average and your bar scene is dull. You can say it's me and maybe it is. I'm a party girl who just likes to relax with a good meal sometimes and not get charged extra when your bartender offers to put pomegranate in my cocktail. But your food doesn't excite me and I need to be excited. I'm sure you won't be at any loss for other regular girlfriends. I wish you the best of luck, but I think I'm over you. Maybe we can just be friends. Call me for drinks sometime. I'll be at Mo's.

Harry and Izzy's: First Impressions

Lots of buzz around town about Harry and Izzy's, the long awaited new restaurant downtown from the people who have brought you St. Elmo's. We popped in last night for a light and late supper, and while I don't think it's fair to judge any restaurant on performance or food during their first week of opening (OK, maybe food), I did have some first impressions.

I like the space! When we walked in the revolving door, my first impression was that the open, two-story room reminded me a bit of Oceanaire. It's open, woody, airy, but I have to say, as I walked further inside, it reminded me more of a Champ's. Maybe it will be a Champ's for grown-ups. There is a lot of bar space promising many a good after work happy hour and the dark wood gives the room a richness while the old Indianapolis photos, sports scoreboards, and open kitchen pass give it a more casual feel. Downstairs is dominated by the massive round bar. However, I thought the panels above the bar showing 1920s scenes give the room a dated look already. Tables and booths upstairs are quieter and still give a sense of privacy as they're set back from the openess of the room. And, of course, the elegance of the evening is a little shattered when they hand you an electronic vibrating coaster that buzzes when your table is ready. (Ours didn't work and they had to send out a hostess expedition.)

The staff looks like it's half composed of venerable downtown waiters -- many of whom we recognized -- and new folks. The difference is most noticeable as the new folks are a bit slower and confuse drink orders more often. As we looked around the room, we found ourselves playing a game where we kept trying to identify which restaurant a waiter had come from previously. As it was last night, our waiter -- clearly a pro -- joked with us and effortlessly refilled our glasses (with James Bond martinis and their signature Indianapolis which is a pumped up and very decent cosmo.) Everything seemed pretty smooth from a service perspective and we felt we were in a place that could have been up and running for months.

The food was another story. I'm very hesitant to pass judgement on any restaurant that's been open three days, but the kitchen needs training -- training as in Dave Foegley standing over each station and tasting dishes as they go out the door. Chefs! Taste your food! Everything was underspiced. It was as if the salt and pepper shipment didn't make opening day. Soup? Needed salt. The fried trout? No spice at all to the breading and needed salt. Corn salsa? Tasty but not big enough and, you guessed it, needed salt. Hey chefs, they put the salt and pepper box in your mise for a reason. Use it! Where did the spice go? Well, I'd argue almost all of it ended up in the spicy meatballs in the form of red pepper -- too hot to eat and the sauce had no flavor base to hold all that heat! A thoroughly unpleasant dish. A beet salad was fine and the flatbread pizzas have potential but our Tuscan model was so loaded with toppings (including soggy tomatos and canned artichoke hearts) that it was soggy within seconds of hitting our table. The potato pancakes were, as the chef at our table said "the only successful dish".

My only quibble with the service was the slight bit of attitude when we commented on the meatballs. When *everyone* at the table pronounces them inedible, you have a problem. However, here's where the signature St. Elmo's attitude comes in. You don't like it? You shouldn't have ordered it. Not that I go around demanding items be removed from my bill, but there are some situations where consideration should be given when a dish is wrong versus when the diner just doesn't like it. This dish was wrong.

Nothing was special but other than the meatballs, nothing made my "never try again" list. I've heard good things about the veal chop, reports are the steaks are OK once they work out some overcooking kinks, and I'm looking forward to trying the sandwiches (including the prime rib) and salads. Harry and Izzy's will make a fine lunch spot and there were a few bargains on the menu as well. (I may try the $12 club sandwich for lunch today!) Ultimately, whether it makes your list of regular stops or not will depend on your taste. For me, it's unlikely to unseat Ruth's Chris or Mo's for cocktailing, but is still a much needed independent addition to downtown. They'll work out kinks on food and service, I hope, although I realize they may never work out all the kinks with the food. They may just settle into a successful level of mediocrity. As someone at our table noted last night, "this place will be successful on overflow from St. Elmo's alone." Considering they've only been open for three days, I think our evening went pretty well.

A Spate of Openings!

Petit Chou in Broad Ripple: While in Broad Ripple the other day, I noticed that Petit Chou, new outpost from the Cafe Patachou folks is coming right along. Look for it on Westfield next door to Midtown Grill serving breakfast and lunch with a European coffee shop flair. Expect parking to be an issue, but in Broad Ripple, when is it not? Scheduled opening is next week.

Harry and Izzy's is Open! No, I haven't been yet but early reports are it's good from the sandwiches right down to their signature St. Elmo's shrimp cocktail. Open for lunch and dinner seven days a week, there will be plenty of chances to try it out.

Capitol Grill Opens Next Week: Capitol Grill, the new steakhouse chain opening at the Conrad, will do a soft open starting April 23 with invitation only dining. Look for them to be fully open to the public by the first of May.

L'Explorateur for Lunch: L'Explorateur will open for lunches beginning May 16. Look for their delightfully light but satisfying sandwhiches and treats. And enjoy their deck when the weather improves.

Wonderful Wine Bars: And look for one more opening later this year in the lofts at 25th and Delaware. In addition to a gourmet market, The Goose, rumor has it a wine bar will be opening to provide locals with a little light libation. We look forward to it!

Claus', Klemm's, Oh, that Brat Place: May 1 look for Claus' German Sausage and Meat (nee Klemm's) to reopen in their new location. Apparently, they always take April off, but this May 1, they're opening for the first time in Fountain Square on Shelby. No matter what you call them, I still call them good!

Tempest in a Teapot: Brizzi Out at Harry and Izzy's

I thought I'd let the news, lawyerly rulings, and general chaos die down a bit over Carl Brizzi's investment at the Harry and Izzy's before commenting. For those who don't know yet, Harry and Izzy's is the new venture from the Steve and Craig Huse of St. Elmo's steakhouse due to open next month in the Nordstrom wing of the Circle Center Mall. (It's on the corner where the Colts pro shop used to be along that cute little wine shop and restaurant with the name I can't remember.)

The tempest? Brizzi was listed as a 10% investor in the St. Elmo's spin-off, due to open next month. (His steak, oops, stake, was $80,000. The Huses own 70% reports the Star.) While preparing for a liquor board hearing (which should take place today), lawyers discovered a problem. Law enforcement officers are prohibited from having a financial interest in an establishment that serves alcohol. And as prosecutor, Brizzi is considered a law enforcement officer.

Legal wrangling has commenced over whether or not Brizzi can hold his investment if his name isn't on the company directly or the liquor license. However, he's done the right thing in disentangling himself from it and selling his shares back to the LLC.

The law is a sound one. Regardless of the name on the liquor license, who wants police officers to have a conflict of interest if they can co-own bars? But for Brizzi, it's an embarrassing first foray into restaurant investing, and too bad, too. Most people who know how risky restaurants can be would say he was saved from himself, and with any other establishment that would definitely be the case. However, I suspect Harry and Izzy's will be a very safe bet. The Huses know what they're doing and my prediction is their newest downtown eatery will be a sure-fire hit. There will probably be a line of people who want to buy Brizzi's 10%.

Brizzi in? Brizzi out at Harry and Izzy's?

Channel 6 news is reporting tonight that Marion Country prosecutor Carl Brizzi has found himself in a bit of hot water in what is presumably his first foray into the restaurant business. At issue? The liquor license for Harry and Izzy's, the new downtown eatery from the folks at St. Elmo's. Brizzi is an investor in the enterprise and it appears that while preparing the liquor license application, attorneys failed to note that it's illegal for police officers or those acting in a law enforcement capacity (including prosecutors) to participate in a business that serves alcohol. Lawmakers are concerned about conflict of interest issues. Brizzi has promised that if attorneys find any conflict, they'll take care of it (presumably by selling his interest.) Harry and Izzy's liquor license request will be heard next Monday.

Tidbits Tidbits

Susan Guyett and the management of Hollyhock Hill, the eponymous chicken-dinner restaurant on College Ave. (on the edge of the Williams Creek neighborhood), want you to know they are open! Apparently there's been some confusion since Dodd's Townhouse, a Meridian and Kessler institution, closed recently.

Everyone's all abuzz with the opening of Bugg's Temple this fall at the top of the downtown canal on 10th. Still no formal date announced but they have a spiffy website! People who keep track of these things will remember that chef Brad Gates went to Bugg's earlier this year -- from Puck's at the IMA -- to helm two new restaurants in the building.

Harry and Izzy's, the St. Elmo's spinoff, is currently on schedule to open this January. The eatery with a broader menu and lunch service will open just down the block from the famous steakhouse. The owners have hired Jeff Smith down from Bonefish Grill as the helming manager. (From the IBJ)