Scholar's Inn Bakehouse Shuttered

Old news, but as of last week, the Scholar's Inn Bakehouse in Broad Ripple is closed, shuttered, locked up tight with a "For Lease" sign in the window and a disconnected phone. One has to wonder if a local coffee and sandwich shop couldn't make it in that location, what will? Another bar perhaps? And with local leaders touting the strength of daytime business in Broad Ripple (and commercial rents approaching the downtown prices), one has to wonder what went wrong. The website is still up touting sandwich specials. Cory Schouten reports Kosene and Kosene raised their rent and their business had been down.

Scholar's Inn: What to Make of This

I give you the specials for SI/Scholar's Inn in their entirety. (I thought this place was now called Sexy and Intimate?) Wasn't this all-specials-all-the-time-shortcut-food-menu the road they were going down before they closed and reopened? And I leave it to you to decide if the "Recession Menu" is better or worse than the "Twin Towers" dessert at Manhattan on the north side. From their email:

1. All Signature Martinis will be half price EVERY NIGHT!!!
2. A Select Wine list where all bottles are half price EVERY NIGHT!!!
3. We are adding new lower price menu items.
4. We will have an additional 'Recession Menu' which will have appetizers & salads for $5 and entress for no more than $12.

1

They are also discontinuing lunches in January.

But why all the exclamation points? If these specials are EVERY NIGHT!!! then why not just call it a price reduction/menu change? Why tout half price bottles of wine off a "select list" just so we think you're nice guys? I'd like to see a place actually just price their bottles at retail prices (which for most is about half the wine list price.) The website lists even more specials -- so many, you practically need a scorecard.

And in a *completely* unrelated note, Cory Schouten at IBJ's Property Lines reports quite a few restaurant changes downtown may be coming in this economy. Leases are expensive things.

Three Latest and Best: Bacon Bourbon Edition!

Moon over My-Hammy: What has Chef Brad Gates and his new staff unleashed?! The latest from Euphoria is their house-made bacon-infused bourbon made into what we instantly dubbed "Ham-hattans", Manhattans with sweet-smoky bacon bourbon and blood orange bitters. Count me in! Possibly the best Manhattan I've ever had. (It's a good sign when the bartender has his own bacon wallet.)

Pizza Pizza: Sure, you'd think I'd be pizza'd out, but was pleasantly surprised the other evening with the cocktail pizzas served in the bar at SI (Scholar's Inn). Served to the crowd at a casual reception, the 'zza's were tucked in next to the obligatory chafing dish of meatballs and platter of pink and green cheese, but still, the pizza was a notch above. Crispy crust, the right cheese, chiffonade basil, and tangy sauce. Maybe I've finally found something there to order.

Find That Pastry Chef! Last weekend, we donned tuxedos and formal gowns for the annual induction ceremony for Chaine des Rotisseurs. The Columbia Club is always a beautiful venue, but amid a classically formal dinner, the sorbet stole the show! Nestled between a nice halibut in a curried beurre blanc and a venison medallion "Forestiere", the mezzo featured a pear sorbet swimming in pear brandy -- so creamy, it became the talk of the evening. When asked about the texture, the chefs said it was the pastry chef's doing. I want to know his or her secret! My other favorite of the night was the pre-supper crispy pancetta wrapped around figs and boysenberry goat cheese. The perfect little bite. (Even better with the Veuve Cliquot.)

SI Martinis, Salads at The Goose, and Happy Hour at Oceanaire

New bar menu at The Oceanaire: While you can still get half-price price oysters and shrimp cocktail, look for a few other specials on the new bar menu at Oceanaire including a tuna tartare o' the day, house cured salmon, fish and chips, and mussels with pork belly and leek. 3-6 p.m. every day.

SI (Scholar's Inn): Look for a summer menu and a new martini list (which looks a lot more like the old, familiar pre-"SI" martini list.) Half-price martinis every night. Wine geeks, half price bottle night is back on Mondays. They'll open for lunch starting June 16.

Salads at The Goose: Chris Eley sends out an RIP for soup and welcomes in salads for summer. Fresh and local with all kinds of tasty bits sounds like a fine way to celebrate when the sun comes out again.

SI Rumors?

Some potentially interesting rumors were floating around last week regarding the new "SI" -- Scholar's Inn, Sexy and Intimate, oh, whatever. It was not the first I'd heard of it, but Bil Browning over at Bilerico posted an interesting blind item asking if anyone knew whether SI was trying to shift its customer base away from a gay market. I'd find it hard to believe what with the redesign and their solid support of the LGBT community, but stranger things have been known to happen. Owners weighed in with Bil adamant that any unfriendly displays have been the result of a rogue employee (whose identity they've been scrambling to confirm.)

As for me, I'm offended by the $6 fee for splitting an entree on the dinner menu.

SI -- Sexy and Intimate: First Look

Popped in to the new Scholar's Inn or SI -- for dinner last night, the opening night of their relaunch as Sexy and Intimate. At the prime 8:00 p.m., they looked to be 1/2 to 3/4 full. It's hard to judge this one since a) it's a relaunch not a whole new place and b) I remember when they opened the first time. The downhill slide was gradual. So, only time will tell when it comes to food and staying power. However, the improvements are undeniable, the concept is completely different, and the overall effect of the design is a nice one.

When you walk in, reserve judgement. The first things you see are the same curvy banister on the stairs, just repainted, and the same hostess stand in a new position. It's unfortunate that these are two such recognizable pieces from the restaurant's swirly green and blue past, but once you see the rest of the place, you get over it.

The bar is now a real lounge-style bar. Separated from the entry by curtains, it has low lights, small seating areas, but no dining tables. A smart move, really, but you can hear the crowd noise and its draw. If we hadn't had reservations, I would have wanted to go have a drink first, but it's very dark and not the best place for a pre-dinner cocktail. (Upstairs is now better for that sort of thing.) As you walk back to the dining room, you'll see they've rearranged seating for what was their most visible area the front and side hallways. Those are now odd open spaces with a few very tall, very private, round booths separated by flowing curtains. The large back dining room that was one open space is now two long dining rooms with long banquettes, tables, and tall booths. Again with the curtains. It gives the overall effect of great isolation from other diners promoting the whole idea that you can, I suppose, have a private dinner with your "peeps" and then roam around if you want to see-and-be-seen. (This place has "date night" written all over it.) Perhaps the best change is upstairs though, utlizing what was a boring and unused open space. It's now a completed room with tall booths and tables and a large communal table (lit from underneath) with a huge LCD panel at the end. If I was more of a neighborhood regular, this would be the place to gather. It's just a great use of space.

Throughout the restaurant, you'll see deep reds and browns with off-white flowing drapes and candle-style can lights around the cornices to create a soft, indirect glow. Call it a drastic change or a complete overhaul, it's a change and one that will play well with some of their clientele and not with others. I don't know enough about their business goals and target audience to assess some of their other decisions -- like creating waiting areas, dimmer lighting, and a space where diners aren't likely to recognize other diners they know. (Before, even with reservations you were likely to wait a few minutes.) A few other notes:

* 10 new cocktails: They all sounded a bit odd but most tasted fine. Look for absinthe, green tea liquor, lychee, and some other new flavors. One is the old "flirtini" -- champagne with raspberries. Skip the one with the green tea.

* Same good wine list: Sometimes it's good when they don't tinker with everything.

* Trimmed down menu: Very smart move for a new chef. Look for 7 or so starters, three salads, a soup, and 10 or so entrees. Jake Brenchley is up from the Bloomington restaurant and we could taste some signature Scholar's Inn flavors. (This chef loves the savory and sweet together.) Best starters were the mushroom pastry with cranberries and a vanilla-cardamom yogurt. (Tasty, but the yogurt was like melted vanilla ice cream on the plate and a bit sweet.) Scallops with endive (well put together and prepared dish.) And the star, the cured calamari with ginger, seaweed, and radicchio. Don't go expecting your normal breaded and fried calamari here (thank the gods), this was an Asian preparation a little heavy on the ginger but ultimately came together with freshness, herbs, spice -- and the bitterness of the radicchio. Nice dish. One warning -- these appetizers are not great for sharing and make for messy plate passing. Just pick one and go with it.

** Salads and the carrot soup were basic and well presented. Best was the frissee with a savory "Tri-frommage" dressing and mushrooms parked on an intense sweet balsamic dressing.

** We'd been eating all day so we skipped individual entrees and split the beef short ribs with a cauliflower "fondue" that was really a gratin but still very good. The bone-in beef rib was perfectly cooked with that cravable texture and flavor you get from well-braised meat. Served topped with a pile of fresh herbs which really made the dish. I really hope the garnishis on this menu don't go by the wayside. In all of our dishes they really added a freshness to bring the flavors together. (And no one wants to see the old "short-cut" Scholar's menu return.) Portions are nicely sized and entrees go in the $18-30 range.

** Yes, they will be continuing the fine tradition of 1/2 price martini Thursdays.

It's good to see another upscale restaurant downtown and I suspect this redesign will put Scholar's back on all of our radar screens for a while. It's too early to tell long term, but I think I can safely say "Welcome back to the neighborhood!"

SI (Sexy and Intimate?) Opens Friday

Lots of buzz building this week about the opening of the newly renovated Scholar's Inn. There's a soft launch tomorrow night with the opening on Friday. They've apparently dropped opentable.com -- at least, I can't find them in the listings. I'd suggest a reservation if you want to drop by for supper. (And I'm hearing good things about the new interior.) I'll be interested to hear your thoughts! (No menus or photos are up yet on the site.)

Chef Shuffle, Devouring Downtown, and Achatz

Some New Chefs in Town: Sometimes a new chef is a great excuse to give a restaurant you'd written off another try. Word has it that Dunaway's has a new chef (we hear the former sous chef has taken over the kitchen). Wine Canine notes that the much-loved former Pidge chef, Casey Uglow, has taken over in the kitchen at Plum's Upper Room in Zionsville. And Cory at Property Lines reports that Jake Brenchley, the chef from the Bloomington Scholar's Inn, will take over the kitchen at what they're calling S.I. (Sexy and Intimate), the new name for the remodeled Scholar's Inn on Mass Ave. opening in February. They're also starting from scratch on staff when they re-open.

Winter Devour Downtown Dates: Mark your calendars for January restaurant week which actually runs for two weeks, January 21-February 2. Check out their website for the growing list of participating restaurants as well as their $30 prix fixe menus. It's a great way to try some new places and revisit a few old favorites.

Grant Achatz Cancer Free: Good news on the Achatz front. Ruhlman reports that after chemo and radiation therapies for aggressive cancer of the tongue, the well-known Chicago chef is cancer free. The statement from Chef Achatz and follow ups from Bruni via Ruhlman's blog.

Mmmm. Smores! If you made the marshmallows a couple of weeks ago from the link at What Geeks Eat, here's your chance to finish them off. (What, you say? Leftover homemade marshmallows? How is that possible?) A perfect smore bar cookie. What's not to love about chocolate, graham cracker crust, and soft goo.

All Around the Town

Welcome to all you new folks who've posted or emailed me in the past week or two to say you read on a regular basis and love the blog! We have some cool new stuff in the works for 2008 and I'm looking forward to lots more great food and wine! In the meantime, here are some cool goodies from the past few snowy days. (Nothing like digging your car out at the airport wearing hose and heels.) Here's some new stuff and a few updates on things you readers have asked us to check on.

Interview with The Goose: I was so pleased to read this interview with Chef Christopher Eley and thanks to you folks who sent pointers to me as well. Not only do I think it's great that he loves "working from home" so he can see his dog (and his lovely wife) but I also dig that he says Pink Floyd is the best music to cure a ham to! Swine worship daily at The Goose Market, 25th and Delaware.

Paul Laurant: So a few of you asked about the champagne I wouldn't name without further research a week or two ago. Light, very elegant, and perfect with salty snacks. I'm ready to reveal -- it's the Paul Laurant Champagne Brut. Call your local retailer but it's likely to be a special order. Buy a case. It's the holidays!

Cabo Mexican Grill Closed: Quite a few readers have reported that Cabo Mexican Grill downtown didn't make it. After opening early in the summer, they've closed their doors. No word on the factors but the location was a little tough, parking was difficult (I speak from personal experience) for the little counter style fast casual place to make it.

Scholar's Inn Closes to Remodel: Official word has been slow in coming so let's hope Julia at The Dish can get a little more, but so far as we know (and Cory has confirmed) is that Scholar's Inn will close in January. (I've heard varying reports on the actual close date and they're still taking reservations in January so I hope they call so people don't show up for dinner and find a locked door.) Rumors I've heard say they'll re-tool as an upscale martini place, but who knows. They say they'll reopen in the spring. I hope they don't scrap those great 80s blue and green over-the-top chairs!

Don't Cry for Me Argentina: No surprise, but the Argentinian place downtown is late in opening. The building still looks like a bit of wreck so I'll be curious to hear when they update their schedule. (Rule number 1 when it comes to opening a restaurant: It always takes longer than you think.) The original opening date was July.

Three Latest and Best

Buttermilk Cornbread in the Edge Pan: Any recipe that says "first, melt one stick of butter" is OK with me. And that's exactly how my mother's buttermilk cornbread recipe starts. The lovely thing is that the melted butter goes in the pan before the batter and becomes the outside of an incredible, brown, buttery crust. Just perfect for the edge brownie pan. Cooking times needed a little adjustment, but otherwise, wow, so many edges!

Ingredient of the Week -- Brussel Sprouts: Yes, I know brussel sprouts are seriously old school (and some consider them seriously gross) but it's coming up on fall and holiday time and, well, maybe it's the Anglo Saxon in me, but I always crave these little round balls of cabbage-y goodness. Plus, I love the way they grow on a tall stalk. My favorite way to cook them lately? Cleaned, then sauteed in butter, salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, then cut in half and steamed all the way through. Mmmm. Brussel sprouty goodness.

Chaine Dinner at the Columbia Club: Sunday night, had a very lovely, black-tie dinner from executive chef Doug Knopp who came to CC from the late Restaurant du Soliel at the Conrad (post-Jonathan Wright). It was a well thought out dinner and Chef Knopp is clearly a well-trained and highly-skilled professional. (One rarely sees classic techniques anymore more such as the tiny-dice, brunoise.) As a layman, I can only imagine doing 8 courses for a group of serious foodies, industry professionals, and chefs is a little stressful. There were a few execution problems (like the consomme with small diced root vegetables in a glass too narrow for the soup spoons we were given) and a couple of dishes that needed work (like the too-intense, foie gras mousse in a soft cream puff pastry and the roasted endive too bitter for the tuna tartare riding along), but overall the result was delicious. There were flashes of brilliance in the subtlety of the fish course (citrus marinated salmon, sliced scallops, and caviar in aioli) and the formal white-glove service. While the perfectly crispy tempura manchego with a thick, sweet balsamic reduction was the best of the starters, the espresso powder and cocoa-crusted veal tenderloin was the best dish of the meal. Fantastic, perfectly cooked, and so tender, you didn't need a knife. My other favorites of the evening? The Oregon Sunset Bay goat cheese (star of the cheese course), and the five spice ice cream (although mine was melty) with a perfect pairing of a semi-sparkling Malvasio. My favorite wine of the night? Tyrrell's Rufus Stone Heathcote Shiraz 2002. Overall, a very successful -- and delicious -- evening.

Two Minute Warning: I don't know why I do this to myself. I *know* the food ends up disappointing me every time I have brunch at Scholar's Inn, but somehow I always get sucked in by the drink specials -- and brunches feature half-price champagne cocktails (although Mimosas are full price.) I know this popular downtown restaurant is a favorite spot for lot of brunchers, but all I can say is "why"? I always just feel suckered in and mad at myself any time I actually *eat* there. Plus, the scary seafood brunch specials always make me think of leftovers from Tony Bourdain's Kitchen Confidential. (I know, I know, stick to the benedicts and pancakes.) This week what did I try? The Chicken "Pot Pie" which was really baby carrots from a bag, peas, a little celery, cubed cooked chicken and a generic cream sauce in a bowl topped with a square of puff pastry. I'm not sure how it was actually cooked or assembled but it looked thrown together on the spot, and it was cold instantly. My friend was smart and stuck with an eggs benedict although it looked like the potatoes had been waiting for a while. Add that to a 10 minute wait for a reserved table when lots of empties were in clear view, people standing around complaining tables weren't cleared when they just didn't do it themselves, long waits for servers, only one kind of bread left ... you get the idea. And in what world do canned mandarin oranges belong on any plate as fruit? Apparently, only in the world of Scholar's Inn. Thank goodness they always have some kind of cheap half-price drink special going. A champagne buzz can cover a multitude of sins.

This and That

You know we're bored in the summer when the biggest foodie activity is speculation on when Bugg's Temple will open. At this point, I can't imagine it's going to be worth it! (Well, except for the Ritters!)

Neal Has Blue Fin: We all need more friends like these! So, some customers and friends of Neal and Lindy's at L'Explorateur went tuna fishing off Cape Cod. They caught a 65-pound Blue Fin at 11:00 a.m. yesterday. Tonight, you, too, can partake in the bounty. (They sent 30 pounds to Neal.) It will be tuna heaven! Call for reservations.

There's a New Bar in Town? Looks like someone is finally going into the former King Cole space that was the old location of Nicky Blaine's. (I can't imagine how they'll get years of cigar smoke smell out of there.) No other info except for the liquor license application on the door next to Qdoba downtown.

Corner Gourmet is Done? I had heard various versions of the rumor that Corner Gourmet was closing, but the one I'd heard most was that Scott had moved but the stores would remain open. Cory at Property Lines checks it out and it appears Corner Gourmet is closed. Sadly, it will be the end of their cooking classes which I know many people tried out over the years.

Devour Downtown Kicks Off: It was a nice event for Second Helpings on Monday with plenty of snacks galore to kickoff the summer downtown restaurant week. The best of the night? The watermelon tomato gazpacho from University Place. (And possibly the burgers on a donut from the new BadaBoomz.)

Adobo Downtown: Various confirmations and close confirmations are trickling in. Christy at The Dish and Cory at Property Lines tell us the rumors are pretty much true (Cory says it's a done deal as far as the property owner is concerned. Christy hasn't yet had confirmation from Adobo's corporate headquarters.) Look for Adobo Grill at 110 E. Washington St *maybe* sometime next spring if all goes well.

Another Great Wine Secret: If you've recovered from the best kept secret in town, (half price oysters at The Oceanaire from 3-6 p.m. on week days), here's the second best. Friends reminded me this week that Scholar's Inn has half price bottles of wine on Monday nights. And they have a carry out license. So you can stop in on your way home. Or buy two bottles and take one home. (Just tell the waiter to open one instead of both.) Their wine list has quite a few to try -- and a few reliable drinkers that will be fun at half the price! (Imagine, Chateau Potelle VGS at $58 a bottle or that yummy David Bruce Pinot for $19!)

Weekend Tidbits

Considering that I started my Friday needing a big Dr. Pepper to counteract last night's shenanigans, I was a bit late scaring up a post. Here are a few tidbits, scraped together to hold you over until next week.

The New Guy at Mo's: Ah, it's spring and change is in the air. Dan, the bartender, shaved his head, and there's a new manager in town. If his welcoming round of drinks -- including the chambourd kamikazi -- is any indication, PK is going to fit right in!

Girly-tini Night is Alive and Well: Nothing says Thursday like half-price martini night at Scholar's Inn. We had a seat at the upstairs bar for all the action -- crazy busy bartenders and lots of cut throat elbowing, and that's just to get a cocktail! It's still one of the best bar nights in town.

Police Nab Gin-and-Tonic Bandit: So, a guy walks into a bar, at a Bloomington O'Charleys', has two gin and tonics and a steak (total $25.96), then walks the check -- every Wednesday for four weeks in a row! On his last visit, servers decided to take matters into their own hands. He was nabbed by police as he tried to leave. Oh, so many questions. If you were going to dine and ditch a steak dinner, wouldn't you at least try Outback?

Ghetto Kroger Rehab Stalls: Rumor has it that the renovation of the ghetto Kroger on 16th Street is stalled for a while. (The word I heard was "abandoned.") Kroger, rightly so, refuses to bow to neighborhood pressure for a large, mixed use redevelopment. Sadly, it's an example of Center Township politicians trying to hold a large corporation hostage for ridiculous demands without regard for what their constituents really need which is a new, renovated grocery store.

Three Latest and Best

Lunch at McCormick and Schmick: Say what you will about this hit-or-miss downtown spot, there's no hotter place to be see and be seen lunching. I've had some famously disappointing meals there, but have discoverd the secret -- stick to the basics. The Seafood Cobb Salad, Shrimp Louis, and Crab Melt are all best bets.

Crostini at Scholar's Inn: After all these years, I *still* love the decor at Scholar's Inn. Sure, it looks like an 80s nightclub threw up in there, but I love those huge chairs and clean colors. And while the food isn't anything spectacular, they do basic salads and sandwiches pretty well. A recent lunch featured an inventive cranberry, brie, and chicken sandwich on costini and my favorite Rocket salad. (Skip the fries -- a soggy mess with bottled ketchup.)

Turkey and Apple Chutney Panini: OK, this was in my own kitchen, but I can think of nothing better to do with left over pita or flatbread than to brush it in oil, heat up the grill pan, and add anything that looks good in the refrigerator. In this case, it was turkey, apple chutney, and queso fresco. Delicious.