Siam Square at 936 Virginia

Good news! For all of you who have been emailing me asking if the new Fountain Square Thai restaurant, Siam Square, is any good? I popped over for lunch and early signs point to yes which is great news since we really need a good Thai restaurant downtown.

They opened Monday (as in two days ago) in the former Bistro 936 space at 936 Virginia which they've painted and spruced up a bit. Honestly, it has what could turn out to be a downtown NYC neighorhood-joint kind of feeling, noisy and hip at night. Owner Ed Rudisell has a corporate management background (BW3's and others) which is probably been good training for opening his own place. And the best part? The food -- at least so far -- is pretty darn good.

I just had lunch but the dinner menu looks pretty interesting. The lunch menu doesn't over-reach. (Mmm, rich Mussaman curry.) Dinner is in the $7-16 range. The heat in dishes can be a bit much so go lower not higher. Lots of vegetarian options. It's a little early to tell, but Ed, his wife, and crew seem to be doing pretty up-to-date, well-executed Thai dishes. As long as they resist the urge to dilute their menu, add non-Thai dishes, or do too much to try to please the bland Hoosier palate, they should be fine. Look for a better-than-usual beer list -- great for Thai food -- and some Thai dishes one doesn't find much in Indy. (Next for me is the soft-shell crab in green curry.)

Three Latest and Best

Stone Crab Claws at The Oceanaire: Even with other treats (a Thai snapper sashimi dish, shrimp with kombu and macadamias with a ginger dressing, and butter poached lobster with crispy sweetbreads, clementines and vanilla bean), the stone crab claws were the stars of a recent dinner at The Oceanaire. If you're not able to head down to the Gulf this time of year, you can feast on these beauties at home. The Oceanaire has plenty of these black-tipped Florida stone crab claws piled high on ice and served with a perfectly tangy mustard mayo. (And a huge special award to my favorite treat of the meal -- the crispy fried sweetbreads. Oh, so good.) Best wine of the night? The 2005 Mer Soleil Chardonney which I've seen making the rounds on a few dinner menus lately and good with the crab. Best pairing? The fun 2006 Scagiola Moscato d'Asti with the key lime pie -- both hit the spot.

Chili, Frito Pie, Dips, Brownies and More: As bitterly disappointed as we all were with the Colts loss, I can't say it wasn't great to send out the season attending a small gathering with a great spread. All my favorite football foods were represented: Chili (two kinds!), cornbread, dips, chips, brownies, and even all the fixings for Frito Pie! With fresh veggies, fruit, and even crunchy fresh peppers, it was a football feast (and lots of beer for drowning our sorrows.)

Food for a Winter's Night: I was on the northside the other evening and after a good workout, decided to reward myself -- with Sawasdee's Mussaman Curry. Ahh, your sweet peanutty goodness. Ohhh, your perfectly cooked potatoes and chicken. Mmm. Your comforting curry love over rice. A perfect way to stay warm.

Oldies but Goodies

I'm about a week behind The Dish and most of my readers in some of this news, but I'm working to get caught up. Here's what I know (which is probably what most of you know at this point.)

India Garden Announces Opening: Various sources are reporting India Garden's new downtown location will be open by the end of August. Look for them right next door to Barcelona Tapas on Delaware just north of Ohio. (No word on the fate of their former location. If the rumors I've heard are true, then their landlord may have his just desserts being stuck with it.)

3rd Botulism Case: Oh, I don't even know why I'm mentioning this, but in the endless recall of Castleberry's canned chili and chili sauce, there's been a third case reported in Indiana. Apparently, either people in Indiana are the only people eating this stuff or the only ones not listening to the recalls. (Yes, I know, there's so much to be said there, but I'm not typing what I *know* you all are thinking.)

We Loved Tom's Bacon: Tom Smith, long time chef de cuisine at Oakley's Bistro, has departed for points south (Branson, MO) and a corporate cheffing gig. Brian Guntz will be the new sous chef. So, long, Tom! We'll miss your bacon!

Three-Course Menu at Oakley's: Also, at Oakley's, look for the return of their popular three-course tasting menu for $29. They tried this last year and it was a big hit. Starting this month, they'll add a nightly three-course seasonal option changed monthly. It's a great way to try some new dishes and enjoy the bounty of summer and fall for a reasonable price.

Sawasdee Doubles in Size! The wall is opened up, the framing in, and Ty says the new addition will be open by the end of next week. In case you hadn't heard, Sawasdee was able to lease the space next door and will be more than doubling seating space since this place is *always* crowded.

Three Latest and Best

Mussaman Curry at Sawasdee: Holy crap this stuff is good. We popped in on Sunday to this bustling north side Thai staple on the verge of their much needed expansion. Having not been in for dinner for a long while, we queried Ty on his recommendation. (I almost always have the green curry at lunch.) He didn't hesitate. "Number 39." All I can say is Wow. Thick, rich, meaty with chicken and rich with potatoes stewing in the thickest, peanutiest, sweet curry *ever.* Oh, so good.

Chinese at Sesame on 86th: I've been looking for a decent, down-home Chinese place for a while, and may have found a passable option at Sesame, newly opened at 86th and Ditch (next to Athletic Annex. Good house made crab rangoon (with real crab in the slightly sweet cream cheese), flavorful wonton soup with a light, fluffy wonton (not hard from the freezer or can), and the kind of egg rolls I like, made by hand and with lots of cabbage and pepper. Plus cashew chicken with lots of wok-hay, that great taste that you only get from a really hot wok and someone who knows how to use it. Worth another visit for the soup and crab rangoon alone.

Cocktail Hour at Palomino: I'd been hearing good things about the after work happy hour at Palomino and I wasn't disappointed. An impressive appetizers list, half-price pizza, and a nice list of cocktails including flavored mojitos round out one of the most robust offerings of all the downtown cocktail menus. I had the berry mojito (heavy, but good with lots of fresh mint) and, of course, the signature Gorgonzola cross-cut fries. Eat 'em while they're hot! Even better? Palomino offers the same deals late night on Saturday! Perfect for late night, post bar snacking.

Two-Minute Warning: In my never-ending quest for good Mexican food in Indianapolis, I can tell you that El Arado Mexican Grill in Fountain Square is not it. It should have been a warning when I asked the server what was good and every dish she recommended was deep-fried. Not up for the chimichanga or taquitos, I opted for the flautas. The beef was pot roast. No, really, it tasted and looked just like pot roast. Good pot roast, but not Mexican food. The rice? Overcooked (the split grains looked like a pile of little X-chromosomes.) The refried beans? I'm pretty sure they came out of a can. The guac? In a world where a taqueria on the West side can blow me away with their simple, fresh, delicious and easily identifiable fresh avocado with onions, peppers, salt and lime, I just refuse to eat the pureed, green avocado-flavored slime restaurant supply houses pass off as cheap guacamole. And I'm over the Mexican places that serve it. (Frankly, I'm over the Mexican places that set up shop with a deep frier, a Sysco account, and no actual, you know, cooking. News flash: If it comes in a pre-made plastic package that you cut open in the kitchen to serve, skip it.) Any self-respecting avocado would be ashamed to have its flavor profile used in the bitter, sour gunk plopped on top of iceberg lettuce and called "avocado salad". (Of course there's no actual *real* avocado in there. It's the avocado equivalent of "cheese food". Seriously, read the label on the same product next time you're in the grocery store.)

El Arado is completely unremarkable. I'd put it on par with La Piedad in Broad Ripple (almost identical actually) and countless other usually crowded but not terribly good Mexican restaurants in town. It's back to the West side taqueria circuit for me. Simpler food but *so* much fresher and tastier.

What's in Your Saraga Basket?

Well, possums, (to quote Amuse-Biatch), I've just finished my meat odyssey and while I'm sure the finished product won't be nearly as impressive as it feels like it should be, it's still a relief! I feel like I've finally gotten my culinary life back! Who knew that seeing, eating, and writing about steak, chops, and pork would take that little extra part of my brain that makes me actually have creative and amusing things to blog. So, fresh from the grocery for some inspiration -- and loaded with Chinese Dieter's green tea, recommended for all manner of purging by one well-known local chef -- I'm ready to eat and cook and enjoy again! (For those of you who have no idea what I'm talking about, don't worry. Come October, I'll give you a heads up.)

Saraga International Grocery, I'm happy to see, is hopping with life! There were times I was concerned as shelves seemed to empty and produce looked grim, but they've adapted, changed a few of their products, and voila! A thriving and well-stocked international market! Great produce including monster papaya, mangos, and watermelons right now, plus a new separate counter for halel goat, lamb, and beef. (The butcher had an entire lamb on his counter while I was there. He kept pointing it out. I think he thought I'd be grossed out by it. Little did he know I'd probably seen it slaughtered.)

They've added a few more American frozen foods and dairy products and there's an expanded beer/wine section. (They have Zipang Sparkling Sake but it's pretty dear at $6.99 for 12-ounce bottle.) And best of all, at 4:00 p.m. on a Saturday, the market was teeming with customers of every ethnicity, a pleasant sight to see in Indianapolis.

What's in my Saraga basket?

*Thai eggplant (the mystery vegetable that cost CJ the quickfire on last week's Top Chef. He's clearly never had the green curry at Sawasdee.)
*Galangal root

*Thai lime leaves (more diplomatically named than "Kaffir" lime leaves, "kaffir" being an ethnic slur in many parts of the world.)

*5 limes

*2 cans coconut milk
*1 can bamboo shoots (sensing a theme here? Maybe see a green curry in my future?)

*fresh cut pineapple

*baby carrots

*chocolate gallettas (better looking than the simply named Chinese confection "Big Gluten Ball")

*3 Ballerina brand Chinese green dieter's tea.

Three Latest and Best

Yellow Curry at Jasmine Thai: "Which strip mall?" Only on 96th Street do you find yourself wondering which generic strip mall contains the restaurant you're eating in. This one happens to be in the same strip mall as Moon Dog Tavern. But having had some really awful experiences at other Thai restaurants in the past, I was pleasantly surprised when our curries where quite tasty. My green curry had green beans in it (strange) but tasted good. My friend's yellow curry, however, was sublime. It doesn't displace Sawasdee for me, but provides another northside option.

Pastries from Rene's Bakery: O, dearest chocolate bourbon pecan pie, how do I love thee? I love thee almost as much as I love the lemony blueberry bread pudding with its crusty sugar coated top. I love thee almost as much as the rich ganache-covered chocolate torte. OK, no way do I love you as much as that chocolate torte from Rene's in Broad Ripple, but still, I like you. Really, I like you a lot.

Food of the Week: Guacamole! When I stumbled across that Costco bag of perfectly ripe avocados last weekend, I didn't know what I was getting myself into. OK, I knew, but I went for it anyway. Four days and five batches of guacamole later, I'm ready for summer! How do I make it? Ripe avocados, tangy tomatillos, juicy tomato, chopped cilantro, and lots of lime and sea salt. Everything chunky and mixed just enough. With fresh, crunchy chips, nothing could be better!

Three Latest and Best

Working the Upper Room: When you're all dressed up for a party, ribs aren't always what you want to see on the buffet table. But at Broad Ripple Steakhouse they were terrific. At a private party in The Upper Room, their small bar area upstairs, we didn't even have to gnaw. It took me a minute to dig in (that never happens), but I couldn't resist the delicious smell. And no gnawing required. They were so tender, one quick tug pulled all the meat from the bone. With just the right amount of sauce, there were surprisingly unmessy for party food.

Cheese at the Corner Wine Bar: We didn't have dinner, but with the appetizer menu they have a CWB, who needs it? The best part? Lots of cheese! We had the fromage plate (with ample portions of feta, goat cheese, and gouda), a baked brie with a brulee-like crust and cherries, and two orders of man cheese (a bread bowl filled with a thick beer-cheese mixture and pecans.) Crackers, toasted French bread, and best of all, sliced apples were abundant! The wine list? So-so to my eye, but we were happy with a couple of bottles of the BR Cohn cab. It was nice with all the cheese.

The Ultimate Pad Thai: I finally figured out what it is about the pad thai at Sawasdee that makes it so good. Well, it's a combination of things, really. It's the sauce, a perfect blend of sweet and salty with just the right amount of tamarind. It's the noodles -- always fresh from a hot wok and never, ever sticky coated in just the right amount of sauce. Or, it's the fresh crunchy bean sprouts that are still perfect after they've "steamed" in hot noodles for a minute or two. Tofu, egg, shrimp? OK, maybe I haven't figured out exactly what's perfect about the pad thai at Sawasdee but it's still fantastic.

A Thai Dinner and Menu

This Saturday is a dinner with an ethnic food cooking group I've been in for quite a while. In the past few months we've enjoyed Caribbean, Northern Italian, Spanish, Indian, and a meal for Epiphany. This month, it's my turn to host and I chose Thai.

When I moved to Indiana from points west, I went through withdrawal for quite a few things, many of which we now have -- Trader Joe's, Cost Plus, and even a soon-to-come Whole Foods. What I still have never been able to satisfy here was a craving for really good Thai food. Long before Sawasdee (still the only Thai food I'll eat in town) came long winters and a recipe for a good Thai green curry from a friend whose then husband had grown up in Thailand when his father was ambassador. From there, I learned Thai soups, spicing, and seafood. I've still not mastered a really good pad thai. But with a little research and some balance, I think we've put together a Thai feast to satisfy everyone --keeping the spice down, limiting the fried food, and including a seafood-eating vegetarian. I'm helped additionally by the fact that all the people in this group are fantastic cooks and enjoy learning about new ingredients and styles. Here's the menu so far.

Mieng Kum (leaf-wrapped savories)
Yam Som-O (pomelo salad) (more in season than the more traditional green papaya)
Cucumber Thai soup (as Americanized as Jean-Georges Vongerichten can make it, maybe not traditional, but delish)
Hoi Ma-Laeng Poo Ob (steamed mussels with lemon grass and basil)
Basil Noodles/Pad Thai
Ambassador's Thai Green Curry with chicken
Jasmine Rice/Coconut Rice
Mixed Vegetables
Haw Mok Thalay (steamed seafood cakes)
and finished with a deep fried caramelized banana spring roll

A feast! The only thing missing? A great Thai cocktail! Off to do more research. If you see people jockeying for the last of the kaffir lime leaves at Saraga this week, you'll know why!