Junipero Gin: Ask for It

For years, my clear liquor of choice has been gin so it's been pleasant to see the spicy nectar going through a bit of a renaissance when it comes to more handcrafted products. As with any semi-artisinal product, distribution is always the key. So, imagine my surprise last year when I discovered Crossroads is equally bullish on hand-crafted, small batch gin and distributes my beloved Junipero.

For the uninitiated, Junipero is a spicy gin but still dry without the heat of T-10 and without the slight harshness of Sapphire, much more elegant and smooth than Boodles, and miles above the sweet, tasteless uncertainty of Hendrick's. It is possibly one of the best martini gins I've ever had, born from the distillers at Anchor in San Francisco (also known for Anchor Steam beer and Genevieve gin).

But here's the problem. While Junipero is easily found at bars in other cities, and on liquor store shelves here, few Indianapolis establishments have yet to add it to their list. When I asked one steakhouse bartender when they'd have it, he replied "When one more person than just *you* is asking for it."

So, what can we do? We can all ask for it. I propose we gin drinkers engage in a bit of viral marketing. First, go buy some Junipero and try it. (I found mine at Kahn's.) Going off the assumption that you like it (and I think you will), the next time you order gin in a bar, ask for Junipero. They'll say "We don't have it," or if they're good, they'll give you a list of the gins they do have, or if they're, say, Bugg's Temple, they'll look at you like you have two heads, and say "What is *that*?"

Servers, bartenders, managers, you have to help. Take your requests to your GMs and bar managers. Say "we have a customer who keeps asking for this gin, Junipero" or better, "I had three people ask for this tonight. Why don't we carry it?"

The liquor business often works on promos (to get the product in) and advertising (to create demand), something that smaller companies can't do. Their products have to succeed on merit. And this is one product that should succeed. So, let's help give it a little push. Gin drinkers, unite!

And, by the way? A very few local bars already carry it, so look for it at Noah Grant’s, Oceanaire, Ruth’s Chris, St Elmo, Stone Creek Inn, Melting Pot in Indy, and FARM, Malibu, and Truffles in Bloomington.

Three Latest and Best

Two Dishes at L'Explorateur: I know some of you think I get stuck on a few of the same places, and others have had inconsistent experiences at L'explorateur. (I know others of you, like me, love it.) But last night? Last night I was reminded of how Chef Neal Brown is cooking at a level significantly higher than so many. While everything I had was delicious (I could eat a dozen of those pork buns with the dark, sweet sauce, and wonderfully sweet-tart pickled cabbage), two dishes rose a level above: The jellyfish salad in a warm "broth" of lime and apple juice with a vinaigrette of soy, miso, and chili oil would be just as at home on the menu at Morimoto or Nobu. The tang of the lime, sweetness of the apple, salty of the dressing and a huge hit of uber-freshness from the cucumber and cilantro made this dish work. The jellyfish -- soaked, marinated, then chopped into noodle-like pieces -- was perfectly tender, and the chili oil added a heat that was an exquisite pain, so enjoyable with the complexity and depth of the broth. (I couldn't stop eating the broth -- the heat was just sublime and such a contrast to amateurish dishes that are all heat with nothing to support it.) My only thought as my eyes were rolling back in my head (or watering, I can't tell which), was how great it is that we have a chef here who can think like this -- and execute it. Other great dish? The sweetbreads -- perfectly pan fried and crispy, but so tender, and served over a small bed of cooked greens in a salty dressing with green olives. The greens -- and green olives, amazingly -- were such a perfectly salty counterpoint to the sweetbreads I caught myself craving a huge, bubbly glass of champagne, perfect to pair with this dish. (I stuck with the lovely and low-key Ramsey Cabernet, just what I was in the mood for last night. Thanks, BK, Lindy said this was one of yours!) A perfect ending to a heavy food week. It all gives me hope even in Indianpolis, we have a few chefs doing fantastic work. Thanks, Neal.

From the Ridiculous to the Sublime: While I was in Bloomington last week (for the FARM review, guess restaurant goes into which category), I couldn't have skipped Restaurant Tallent. Chef Krissy Tallent at the bar making us "fluffernutters" with her housemade (and toasted) marshmallows and spiced nut butter was pretty sublime while we drank wine in the bottle since I was in college. Had an excellent bar dinner made even better by lots of laughing and a chance to catch up with the Tallents.

Cobb Salad at Nordstrom Grill: I've been looking for a traditional, west coast-style Cobb salad for a while and found a passable facsimile at Nordstrom Grill. Had a pleasant lunch with a former colleague (and blossoming food writer in her own right) and was happy to finally see that someone knows how to put together a Cobb the California way -- with lots of bacon, blue cheese, and avocado. But the best part? The chocolate mint "sticks" that come with the check!

Two Minute Warning: Hey, Servers at Palomino! I know you're trying to turn tables quickly during a busy lunch service, but when people are clearly having a business lunch and deep in discussion, please don't try to remove their plates every time they put their fork down! Yesterday, while a colleague and I discussed ideas, our half-eaten entrees were nearly snatched away in five separate kidnapping attempts. With dessert, we only had to fend off the "areyoufinishedyet" and "maywetakeyourplate" zealots twice. Next person who attempts to remove my rhubarb-strawberry cobbler gets the fork I had to ask for in the back of the hand!

Tasting Sized Pours

Sure, you can't buy wine in Indiana on Sunday but you can read about it. Last week, popped in to the Kahn's "Burgundy" tasting. It was really Burgundy style wines with a whole bunch of pinot noirs, pinot blancs, chards, and more. I wasn't terribly vigilant about hitting all the stations, but a few quaffs caught my eye. (And check out the cool new champagne sign out front!)

Valley of the Moon Pinot Blanc 2006 -- a light, acidic white perfect as a weeknight drinker, $19.49 a bottle

Rodney Strong Russian River Pinot Noir 2006 -- Rodney Strong has long been a personal favorite for California reds and they deliver with this pinot noir. Rich, elegant, and great for the money -- $25.99 a bottle

Bergstrom Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir -- When Bill Kennedy from Crossroad Vintners said he had an Oregon Pinot that would turn me around, I was skeptical. But then I tried this Bergstrom. Rich, round, earthy, and highly complex, it doesn't typify the bitter, tannic, thin pinots I too often find typical of the region. An incredible wine. $52.99 a bottle

Wine Wednesday -- One Ounce Pours

For those of you who read a few food blogs, you'll know that many of them post on wine topics on Wednesdays (called surprisingly enough Wine Wednesday, ha ha.) So, since it's Wednesday, here are a few small pours in honor of the nobel vino.

The Bison Business: OK, so it's not wine, but Marion Burros touts her NY Times piece on bison at Diner's Journal. Lots of local butchers sell a lot of Indiana bison on advice of cardiologists. If you like steak, but have cholesterol issues, you might give the noble buffalo a try. I know Kinkaid's carries it most days and if Joe Lazzara doesn't have it, he can get it. (Joe can get anything.) What wine to drink with your buffalo steak? I'd recommend a nice, rich Zinfandel, I think.

Stale Wine for Sale? With the proliferation of wine bars and large wine-by-the-glass lists, have you ever sent a glass back? I have -- and I think more people should since there's just no way a bar or restaurant with a sizable by-the-glass list can keep an opened bottle fresh. Sure, they pump them out or use nitrous systems, but even then, it's not fool-proof. I think Bauer (and his commenters) make an excellent point. Wine makers take the rap for bad wine (when it's really an oxidized glass) and some bars rake in the cash with customers who don't know any better. Join the revolution. Send back wine-by-the-glass that's past its prime. (And speaking of stale, yes, I know this post is *weeks* old. Luckily, it didn't oxidize as fast as that two-day old grocery store pinot noir they're selling you for $10.)

State Fair Wine Judging: In case you're wandering around the state fair this week or weekend, stop in a take a gander at the wines judged for the Indy International Wine Competition. (They're locked up in a case in the same building that features the flower show and the honey ice cream.) It's difficult to tell by their display how the categories and rankings fell, but you'll see the grand champion for both the international and Indiana wines. No surprise that Oliver did well. Jeff at the Good Grape has an interesting post on the competition and judging criteria.

Want: The Wine Pouch with a Handle! Really, what more can be said except for Thank You, South Africa! Wine, in a pouch, portable, with a spigot. It's like a giant Capris Sun juice pouch for grown ups (minus the annoying straw)! And as long as the wine is good and preserved well, I'll drink it out of almost anything. Really, how great would this be for coolers, boating, and picnics (think Symphony on the Prairie!) All I want to know is how long until Nolan and Bill can get us some! (Via Dr. Vino.)

Cipriani Groups' Liquor License Revoked? And also via the good Doctor, some reports tell us the New York state alcoholic beverage board may go after the famous restaurant group's liquor license. Screw Cipriani Soho, I'm worried about the Rainbow Room! (From the Herald Trib)

Bits and Pieces

A Twisted Dinner! Just what we've been waiting for -- a particularly twisted reason for a feast at L'Explorateur. Neal, Lindy, and Crossroad Vintners are welcoming the famous (or infamous) Boy Braynerd, winemaker for Twisted Oak in Calaveras, California, for a Twisted Oak wine dinner, Tuesday, August 21, at 6:30 p.m. With the big wines and flavors -- and the rowdy and fun tone these wine lovers set -- this will be a can't miss event. These guys *love* wine and it shows. I may have to wear my "Wine Rack" tank top. Call L'Ex for reservations.

Bar Menu at Tallent: Christine (over at My Plate or Yours) has a beautiful preview of the new bar menu at Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington. If you haven't eaten Dave's incredible food, you're missing out on some of the best in the state. And a bar menu is a perfect way to enjoy a light dinner with a glass of wine while making reservations for a Big Night Out!

More Bloomington News: Also, from our fair city to the south, Bloomington Eat Local night is this Friday, August 17. Eleven local restaurants including Trulli, Nick's, Upland Brewery, tutto bene, and Restaurant Tallent, will have special menus featuring locally grown foods. Ask your favorite restaurant if they're participating and order local!

Bar Menu at Peterson's: More details to come, but we hear Peterson's has a new happy hour bar menu with specials starting this month, too. Haven't heard about dishes and prices but I'll update you when I get the info. (Bar menus and happy hour pricing are a great way to sample the food at some of these fine dining restaurants before committing to a full meal. With all this hot weather, they're also a great way to eat more lightly!)

Bartenders at Ruth's: We'd heard a nasty rumor of some turnover at the downtown Ruth's Chris bar (which would be a real shame because they have some of the best bartenders in town.) Turns out nasty rumors are all they are. Bar goddess Susan Brewer confirms that our favorites Matt and Theresa are still firmly employed while martini master Mode has been away helping open the new restaurant up north. He'll be returning shortly!

Pizza King Arriveth: Yes, it's true (or as one fan said as his eyes rolled back in his head in anticipation, "There *is* a God.") Pizza King has opened a location in Broad Ripple. For fans of classic thin crust pizza, it's a welcome addition to the local pie market. Look for it on Broad Ripple Avenue in the old Tin Star location! (There are locations in Geist and Zionsville as well.)

A Big Shout-Out to Crossroad Vintners

Indy is a small town, and in a small town, anything different is good. While I complain endlessly about wine lists with the same brands I can find at Marsh, there are a few people fighting the good fight. In this case, Bill and Nolan at Crossroad Vintners, a distributor focused on getting excellent wines from smaller, lesser known houses out to our best restaurants and onto their wine lists. Crossroad will also be distributing Twisted Oak, so chefs, now you know who to call.