Steve Oakley and Dave Tallent Make James Beard List

Ahh, spring, when the weather turns warm and the long list of nominated chefs heads out to James Beard Award judges who name the best chefs, restaurants, and restaurateurs in the US. Here at home, chefs Steven Oakley (Oakleys Bistro) and Dave Tallent (Restaurant Tallent in Bloomington) are on this year's "long list" of chefs nominated in the Great Lakes region. (The region also includes Chicago chefs, so it's a tough class.) Oakley has been nominated several times in the past for the James Beard Best Rising Chef award.

Thanks to Bloomington food maven Christine Barbour for the pointer. From Christine, here's what happens to make the short list:

The next step in the awards process is that this list, which has been winnowed down by committee from a broader list of nominees, is submitted to the Beard judges, most of whom do not live or even dine in Indiana. Since judges can only vote for chefs in whose restaurants they have eaten and we are in the Great Lakes category with Chicago, well, you can figure out that the rules aren’t exactly stacked in Indiana’s favor.

Full list of nominees from across the US from NY Magazine.

Holiday Orders -- Don't Forget

Deadlines are fast approaching for holiday take-out orders from Oakleys and R. Bistro. If you order, try to make the deadlines for cutoffs and make sure you pick up on time.

**Oakleys Bistro is offering their usual scrumptious line of holiday offerings including Steve's signature butternut maple soup, stuffing, garlic mashed potatoes, turkey chestnut gravy, cranberry chutney, and a special salad dressing. Call for pricing. Deadline for all orders is noon on Saturday. Pick-up on Wednesday.

**R.Bistro has two pies available for ordering for the holiday season -- Pumpkin Nutella (that sounds good!) and Coconut Custard. There's no information in the email about order deadlines for Thanksgiving, but call them to inquire. $20 per pie.

Three Latest and Best

Broad Ripple Farmer's Market: Ahh, the bounty of the Broad Ripple farmer's market on Saturday morning. It was a crisp, cool morning and every stand had plentiful, colorful fresh peppers, purple, ripe eggplants, the last of the fragrant basil, wonderful colors and shapes of squash, pie pumpkins, carving pumpkins, and even wonderful Asian greens, herbs, and zucchinis. There was a long line at the Royer meats stand which ought to tell most small, local meat producers that there are a lot of people who want to buy your product. I made out with a pound of fresh shitake and oyster mushrooms. (I smell risotto in my future.) Next weekend will be the last Saturday.

Lunch at Oakley's Bistro: While it didn't seem up to their usual standards, even a sub-par lunch at Oakley's is better than 90% of the other restaurants in town. The butternut squash maple soup was great (although instead of the usual lovely diced veggie bits, something in mine was a bit soggy), the pork scaloppini was delicious (although not as tender as its veal counterpart can be), and the dessert crepe was a tasty peach treat (although we had to skip the overly sticky candied walnuts after the first bite.) I still love this reliable old standard and the menu is pretty much exactly the same, even if you haven't been there in a year. Don't forget their three-course tasting menu for $29 every Tuesday and Wednesday evening.

Pho at Sandra Rice and Noodles: Saturday, popped out for lunch at this delightful little place out on Pendleton Pike. With a lighter, updated Vietnamese menu, we enjoyed traditional fresh spring rolls with shrimp, cold spicy chicken spring rolls, chicken satay with a light peanut sauce, and then a flavorful cooked pork on rice noodles along with perfectly elegant pho. In a world where too many people think Asian food has to be a greasy, brown mess, this comfortable Geist-area bistro was a modern, light, and inexpensive treat.

Two Minute Warning: Speaking of a brown, nasty mess ... well, I had a pasta dish at Puck's for dinner the other night I can only describe as just plain screwed up. While nothing at Puck's is spectacular, it's rare at any restaurant for me to find something so bad I would send it back. However, I was with a larger group of very gracious and polite non-foodies as a guest, I didn't feel it was appropriate to make a scene. The manager said the pasta for the mushroom and asparagus linguine was fresh -- made by the pastry chef that day. If so, it was either too wet before cooking, or just cooked incorrectly. (Woe to the pasta station line cook who doesn't know how to handle fresh pasta differently from dry. Boil the water, dude!) As soon as it arrived at the table, it smelled great for 30 seconds, then solidified into a gooey ball of pasta dough that both tasted and looked pretty grim. (This happened to two of us.) I left half of mine and ate part of a bowl of mashed potatoes from my neighbor's chicken instead. The desserts were pretty uninspiring despite raves from the staff about this amazing pastry chef. For the price, I'm not sure I'd consider a few bites of mashed potatoes and chocolate ice cream for dinner a success.

Three Latest and Best

Crepes, Brioche and Nutella: Petit Chou has quickly taken over as my favorite brunch spot in town, not only because of their perfect Broad Ripple location, but also because I love their menu! The crepes win me over every time. My latest favorites? Eggs, sunny side up in a crepe with Gruyere and brioche toast with nutella. This time of year, take your sunglasses and enjoy the patio.

Butternut Maple Soup at Oakley's: It's ba-aaack! If you haven't tried this sublime annual treat at Oakley's Bistro, where have you been? It's one of the single best things about fall in Indianapolis. And don't forget they sell it by the quart if you're already planning for Thanksgiving. (Shout out to the fabulous Lisa Cunningham.)

Dinner at Morton's: What is it about Morton's? Why don't I go more often? Is it the funky street entrance? The pokey stairs? The often absent or inattentive hostess/greeter? No matter. Even with the uninspiring entryway, I've always have a great time especially in their small private board room and warm, clubby bar (with those funky and wonderful art deco carved bar chairs). Unsurprisingly, a recent dinner was no different. After a fantasic meal with great company, I was reminded again that this often overlooked downtown steakhouse has a lot to offer. We enjoyed the standard fare -- great steaks and steakhouse favorites -- but with some welcome additions. My favorites? An ultra-fresh tuna tartare starter with creme fraiche and avocado, a nice change from the standard seared tuna appetizer; a classic iceberg wedge salad with tomato and bacon but with a pleasant twist -- Thousand Island, a salad dressing I've always loved even though it's out of style; and along with roasted potatoes, mushrooms and spinach, and huge asparagus, I loved the perfectly crisp french fries. (They were added after the CEO interviewed servers in all 75 restaurants and asked about the most requested menu item Morton's didn't have.) Add, of course, the excellent Allen Brothers USDA Prime steaks (strips and fliets for most of us). It was all topped off with their polished deserts including a thick chocolate "velvet" cake and their signature key lime pie. I could live without the formal server presentation of plastic-wrapped plates showing steaks and fresh seafood (although I did like the live lobster swaying around), but it was a lovely meal all topped off with a fine 2003 Beringer Private Reserve cabernet. Look for their happy hour bar special -- free mini steak sandwiches from 5-7 p.m. weeknights.

Oldies but Goodies

I'm about a week behind The Dish and most of my readers in some of this news, but I'm working to get caught up. Here's what I know (which is probably what most of you know at this point.)

India Garden Announces Opening: Various sources are reporting India Garden's new downtown location will be open by the end of August. Look for them right next door to Barcelona Tapas on Delaware just north of Ohio. (No word on the fate of their former location. If the rumors I've heard are true, then their landlord may have his just desserts being stuck with it.)

3rd Botulism Case: Oh, I don't even know why I'm mentioning this, but in the endless recall of Castleberry's canned chili and chili sauce, there's been a third case reported in Indiana. Apparently, either people in Indiana are the only people eating this stuff or the only ones not listening to the recalls. (Yes, I know, there's so much to be said there, but I'm not typing what I *know* you all are thinking.)

We Loved Tom's Bacon: Tom Smith, long time chef de cuisine at Oakley's Bistro, has departed for points south (Branson, MO) and a corporate cheffing gig. Brian Guntz will be the new sous chef. So, long, Tom! We'll miss your bacon!

Three-Course Menu at Oakley's: Also, at Oakley's, look for the return of their popular three-course tasting menu for $29. They tried this last year and it was a big hit. Starting this month, they'll add a nightly three-course seasonal option changed monthly. It's a great way to try some new dishes and enjoy the bounty of summer and fall for a reasonable price.

Sawasdee Doubles in Size! The wall is opened up, the framing in, and Ty says the new addition will be open by the end of next week. In case you hadn't heard, Sawasdee was able to lease the space next door and will be more than doubling seating space since this place is *always* crowded.

Oakleys Updates -- 4 Years, Holidays, and New Year's Eve!

Lots of news in the Oakleys Bistro newsletter this week:

** Stop in on Dec. 5 to celebrate their 4th birthday! Here's to many more great years! Steve, Lisa and the gang will be hosting a special Tuesday tasting from 5:00 p.m. - 6:30 p.m, Tuesday, Dec 5, featuring great wines, a special kitchen treat, and a virtual who's who in the wine world -- many alums of the past four years.

** Make holiday reservations for lunches and dinners in December now. (I say this because last year several of us girls planned a holiday lunch and were almost shut out! We've made our reservations now!) Call 824-1231.

** And reserve your space for a special prix fixe menu on New Year's Eve. They'll be offering 3 and 4-course tasting menus for $50 and $65 not including wine.

Three Latest and Best

Kobe Beef Burger at Ruth's Chris: Nothing says Colts game day like a great steakhouse burger. And nothing could be better than the Kobe beef burger at Ruth's Chris on the game day menu. It comes served with my favorite crispy shoestring fries. Paired with an excellent glass of cabernet, it's just perfect. (As is their bar during the game, I might add -- uncrowded, warm, great service, and with good television coverage of the action just two blocks away.)

Salads at Oakleys: Yes, it was raining, and yes, I went in for soup, but I couldn't resist the salad. Every one looked fantasic -- bibb, romaine, olives, pine nuts, candied pecans, buttermilk dressings, mustard vinaigrettes. And three words, people: Goat Cheese Foundue.

Roast Chicken and Wine at L'Explorateur: There is at least one nationally known chef who interviews job candidates simply by asking them to roast a chicken. It's harder to do than you think which is why everone raved over the simple but incredble roast chicken at L'Exploratuer. Neal Brown (and the fabulous Lindy) hosted an Indianapolis food and wine who's who for their beaujolais nouveau release party on Thursday. My favorite? The wild boar sausage with parsnip marmelade. We defininately need more wine holidays!

Takeout for the Holidays

Yes, many of us do eat takeout for the holidays -- and what better takeout to have than butternut squash maple soup from Oakley's or buttermilk pie from R. Bistro? Quite a few local chefs are very busy just before Thanksgiving filling orders for customers willing to pay the price for serving a little bit of perfection at home. And it's usually worth it. A few tips if you're ordering from your favorite restaurant for the holidays:

1. Place your order as early as possible. Avoid last minute additions, cancellations, or changes, even if you're a regular and think it won't be a big deal. (I've been in the kitchen when Steve Oakley is making 30 gallons of soup and trust me, calling to ask for a few more quarts at the last minute is a big deal. (The words "It's OK, the chef knows me" are also not such a great idea.)

2. Be prompt in picking up your order. Staff have to schedule these pick-ups around the restaurant's usual hours and service, so it's nice if you can pick it up when they're not slammed. Don't order then not pickup.

3. Follow the storage and re-heating instructions. In my experience, chefs are happy to help give you guidance on how to best serve their food. (It reflects well on them and their restaurant!) But pay attention to getting it home, freezing or refrigerating properly, and reheating or cooking as necessary.

4. When in doubt, ask. Like something on a restaurant's menu and want to know if they can make it for pick-up for a family meal? Ask. Most places are very accommodating. And what a treat -- no cooking for Thanksgiving! Just lots of football and eating too much good food!

And for starters, here are a couple of options locally.

R.Bistro -- Their signature Buttermilk Pie and "1929" Lemon Cake Pie for both Thanksgiving and Christmas. Order starting today -- Monday, Nov 13. For Thanksgiving, pick up is Weds, Nov.22. For Christmas, pickup is Dec 23. 24 hours notice required, $20 per pie (serves 8). To order, call 423-0312.

Oakleys Bistro -- Butternut Squash Soup ($18/quart), Sourdough Sage Stuffing ($12/quart), Turkey Chestnut Gravy ($12/quart), Cranberry-Ginger Chutney ($8/pint). Orders must be placed by noon on Saturday, November 18, 2006, and picked up on Wednesday, November 22, 2006. To order, call 317-824-1231.

BR Cohn Dinner at Oakleys Bistro

I hear through the grapevine that there might be a few places left at the BR Cohn Wine Dinner this Sunday at Oakley's Bistro. (These dinners book early but sometimes there are a few last minute cancellations.) Those of you from Oakleys early days will remember the fabulous Brian Fowler, who now is a sales rep for BR Cohn's wines. Cohn does some amazing reds and is also known for their olive oil. If you've never been to wine dinner or if you love Oakleys this will be a "can't miss" event.

6:00 p.m. reception, 6:30 dinner
Sunday, November 12
Oakleys Bistro -- 824-1231

Three Latest and Best

Hmmm. Colder weather, more dress-up parties, and fall menus!

Butternut Squash Maple Soup at Oakley's Bistro: It's Baaa-aaaaack! There's a reason patrons clamor for this signature soup even before it goes on the Fall menu. It's quite simply fantastic. This sweet and savory classic smells like pumpkin pie before you've taken your first bite, and the spicy creaminess satisfies to the last drop. If you haven't had it before, try it. If you already love it, it's time to head in for more.

Beef Tenderloin at Midtown Grill: With a new chef and revamped menu, Midtown Grill seems to be doing just fine. At a recent cocktail party, the buffet dinner was better than your average fare -- oven roasted potatoes with sea salt, well-flavored mixed vegetables, and a *delicious* beef tenderloin in a perfect horseradish cream sauce.

Cool Fall Nights with India Garden: While the service has gone downhill at the Broad Ripple location in the past few months, the food is still perfect for these cold, dark nights. There's nothing more perfect than the Chicken Tikka Masala, nan, and a stress-free night in front of the television. Twenty-first century comfort food.

Three Latest and Best

Ginger Crusted Salmon at Oakley's Bistro: Get the to Oakleys. Get thee to the ginger crusted salmon with mashed potatoes, bok choy, and shrimp dumplings (fried crispy like wontons!) topped with a spicy tomato glaze and daikon radish. That is all.

Shortbread at Plum's Upper Room: This new Zionsville eatery is a cozy, warm spot upstairs over the quaint old town main street. With a wide array of coffees and pastries, they also feature wine in a "wine bar" atmosphere later in the day. My favorite? The cranberry, macadamia nut shortbread. Not too dry and very flavorful, even though it was shaped like a big cookie instead of the traditional shortbread round.

Shoestring Potatoes at Ruth's Chris: For some odd reason, lately I've been craving french fries -- with everything. So, it was natural and good that last week, while ordering my regular bar dinner at Ruth's Chris, I decided to forgo the ahi tuna and order a huge plate of their perfect shoestring fries. Tiny, thin, just crispy and served with housemade ketchup. How can they be so wrong when taste so right?

Ode to Duck -- and Bourdain on Foie Gras

Lord, thank you for the amazingly tasty duck that died to bring me the duck broth won-ton soup from Oakley's last night. Its rich marrow did not die in vain, nay, it glorified the natural world as I practically drank from my bowl after the first course of the three-course Asian Bistro menu. It's bones, carcass and skin were gladly and lovingly cooked for hours, for the broth was too rich for an ungodly man (or woman). Thank you also, for the cow, that provide the tender, lovingly cooked and sliced meat (that Chef Tom Smith seared perfectly and served with thinly sliced Asian veggies and greens with a rich lime and soy based sauce that worked effortlessly with the french fries!). And, the fig and tamarind rugelach?! Somewhere, a Jewish grandmother is nodding in approval.

In the meantime, we still have nuts like New Jersey assemblyman Michael Panter's who last week went on an insane tear about foie gras. In the next week or two, he plans to introduce a ban on sale in and out of New Jersey of the gourmet delicacy targeting artisanal food legend and NYC supplier D'Artagnan. Ruhlman reports from Meganut. In the meantime, Tony Bourdain speaks sanity from the pages of Salon. Bottom line? Do you think it's right that someone else gets to tell you what to eat? From Bourdain:

Look, if you don't want to patronize a business that serves foie gras, don't go there. Running full-page ads telling people how evil you think it is -- that's also a legitimate enterprise, in my view, and one that's been effective in the case of anti-fur activism. But particularly as I travel so much and have come to know so many other cultures older than ours -- to criminalize ways of eating, to suggest that we've all been wrong since Roman times, well, that kind of interference scares me. It's like an American tourist traveling around the world stopping over in different countries, and saying, "This is wrong and you should stop that -- because me and my privileged, well-fed, white friends in our comfortable shoes think so." I respect people's decisions. You don't want to eat foie gras? Don't eat it.

But the intended bill on foie gras in New Jersey is not a breath of fresh, sensible air, it's a whiff from the crypt.

Prix Fixe Thursdays at Oakleys Bistro

Oakley's is trying something new on Thursday evenings with Chef de Cuisine Tom Smith. Tom (who makes his own bacon so we love him) has won both the Indiana and national Pork Producers Association competitions and is generally Steve's right hand man in the kitchen. Tom is now offering a three-course, $25 fixed price menu on Thursdays with a different theme each week. They all sound good but I'm pretty sure I'll be in for Oct 5 and 12. The menus?

Thursday, September 28, 2006 -- Mediterranean
Course 1: Mussels in a White Wine-Tomato-Smoked Paprika Broth and an Aioli Crouton
Course 2: Cumin-Coriander Rubbed Cornish Hen with Three Grain Salad, Squash Purée and Pomegranate Molasses
Course 3: Date Nut Cake with Spiced Cream and Nut Brittle
~
Thursday, October 5, 2006 -- Asian Bistro Fusion
Course 1: Won Ton Soup with Scallop Won Ton, Duck Broth, Bok Choy, Carrot Shiitakes and Scallions
Course 2: Asian Steak “Frites” with Grilled Strip Steak, Bok Choy and Cilantro-Lime Pommes Frites
Course 3: Dessert Sampler with Fig–Tamarind Rugalach, White Chocolate Coated Candied Ginger, Macadamia Shortbread Cookie and Apricot-Lime Jellies
~
Thursday, October 12, 2006 -- Chef’s Selection
Course 1: Salmon “BLT” with Grilled Salmon, Tom’s Bacon, Romaine, Tomato Jam, Avocado Purée and Sherry Mustard Vinaigrette on Brioche
Course 2: Coffee Brined Pork Shank with a Brown Sugar-Black Pepper Glaze and Rosemary Baked Beans
Course 3: Maple Crème Caramel with Bourbon-Vanilla Apples

Oakleys Bisto
Call for reservations
824-1231