Monday, October 31, 2005

My Last Three

Lunch at Santorini's: They've moved from their Virginia Street location to Prospect just east of Fountain Square but they're still serving the best Greek food in town. The platters for lunch are enormous but worth it (the marinated fish kabobs, oh *yes*!) Hint: Get two portions of the dill sauce. Plus perfectly crispy, soft pita bread.

Dinner at Ruth's Chris Downtown: After crazy travel schedules, nutty deadlines, and football season, it's been tough to schedule our weekly girls dinner. Last week, we were so ready for a drink, it didn't even matter it was a Monday night. After crab cakes and my favorite Ruth's Chris Chop salads, along with great wine, we were happy to let the new GM Ryan talk us into cigars. It was, quite simply, fantastic.

And wine from Kahn's: Hit the Diamond in the Rough Sale with a wonderful friend of mine visiting from out of town. I love tasting with someone who's on exactly the same page. We tasted expensive reds commando style -- hopping all over for first tastes of the best ones. Star of the evening? The Super Tuscan Sette Pointe Oreno 1999 -- absolutely incredible! And drinking for every penny's worth of its $119 a bottle. No word on how many six-bottle cases were available at only $532 each. Our purchases? We split cases of a knockout Rancho Zabaco Syrah 1999 and a splurged on a great Chateau Sourverain Reserve Cab 2000. No word yet on availabilities.

Sunday, October 30, 2005

Food Bloggers Wanted

The Accidental Hedonist posts this request on behalf of Tomatillo for food bloggers regarding a new book of blog posts.

Friday, October 28, 2005

Su Vino Sold!

For those of you in the Dallas-Ft-Worth area, you'll be interested to know that popular winemakers Tim Weinheimer and Patrick Nelson have sold their award-winning Su Vino Winery in Grapevine. In what sounds like one of those serendipitous life changing events, Tim was offered a dream job rejoining the world of advertising. And, the two also happened to get an offer they couldn't refuse for popular microwinery Su Vino. They've packed up, sold the condo, and moved to Mars -- Pennsylvania, that is, just outside Pittsburgh. (Patrick and Tim say "bring wine!" Apparently Pennsylvania's state-run liquor stores leave something to be desired.) The new owners are, by all accounts, passionate about the business. They have a strong legacy to stand up to. Here's hoping they keep up the great tradition!

Thursday, October 27, 2005

The Coach House Celebrates 20 Years

If you've never been to the The Coach House in Oklahoma City, you've missed a rare culinary experience in an even rarer place. While everyone knows I hold a personal little spot on my heart for Chileno's, there are only so many times you can get dressed up to eat roasted jalapeno peppers (with superfine salt), whole fried fish, and home made salsa with beers as big as your head. The Coach House is, quite simply, the finest restaurant in Oklahoma. Period. And, I have great respect for them as chefs from this fine establishment have been among the only to beat Chef Oakley at the national pork competition.

Chef Kurt Fleischfresser (what a name for a chef) and his team have done a spectacular job of derlivering amazing food time and time again, building a legacy of excellence. From their announcement email:

To celebrate our 20th Birthday, we are having a pair of celebration dinners! On Sunday evening November 13th, and Monday evening November 14th, we will serve a sumptuous repast that will reflect the best of what we know about the art of food and wine. Our menu will feature a reflection of where we’ve been and where we’re headed including dishes from the earliest years of the restaurant to some of my more recent culinary inspirations. We will pair great wines with every course, and I can promise you they will be fabulous.

If you can join us for the finest meal of the year in 2005 and help us celebrate 20 years of great food and hospitality, please call soon at 842-1000. The price per person will be $125, including cocktails and wines. Dinner each evening will start at 6pm. I hope to see you here.

Kurt Fleischfresser
Chef & Owner
The Coach House
I only wish I was going to be in town for the day! I'd happily make my reservations and raise a glass to success!

Wednesday, October 26, 2005

And Who Said Cookware Wasn't Sexy

Mark Morford in today's SF Chronicle masters the art of food writing - it's not that different than the fetishes he usually writes about. He's seducing a new set of cookware and it's making him want to do all those dirty little things that you do with high end pots and pans. His problem? He can't choose. How can it be wrong when it feels so good?

Kahn's Diamond in the Rough Sale

Don't forget Kahn's Diamond in the Rough Sale this Thursday. It's a great way to pick up wine for the holidays and even for your own personal cellar. Jim gets distributors to sell small remaining inventories, discontinued wines, or wines that are in great shape but ready to go on the door. Case sales only. And, as always, a great spread. (If you want the list, post a comment and I'll email it to you.) Advance tickets sales extended through 5:00 p.m. Oct 26.

@ The Montage
6: 30 p.m., Thursday, Oct 27
$20 in advance; $25 at the door

Tuesday, October 25, 2005

Roadtrip to La Trattoria Regioni

Speaking of high end Italian, here's a restaurant I'm actually looking forward to trying! It's sad that I've become so downtown centric that trip to Carmel requires a map and a lot of extra thought. But, I was discussing having dinner with friends and we've decided to road trip up to La Trattoria Regioni. (Yes, for us, 146th Street is a road trip. We might as well be going to Bongi's Tavern or Bijou. Only, I'm guessing we won't need the same tailgate "supplies" as we usually need for Bongi's.) Why is this one worth it? Chef Dan Frost who also has pizza shops Eh! Frommagio gets to break out of sandwiches and pie and put his CIA training to work. While we're not sure anything could beat his mother-in-law's chocolate chip cannoli, I'm guessing it's worth the drive. They're open for dinner only.

Monday, October 24, 2005

The Patio in Broad Ripple to Close

From today's IBJ-Daily email:

55-year-old Broad Ripple club to close: The Patio, at 6308 N. Guilford Ave. in Broad Ripple, will close for good Nov. 30, after about a half century in business under various names. The Patio, which started out in 1950 as a bar and live music club called the Terrace Lounge, has seen dwindling sales over the past few years, according to the club's owners, Steve Ross and Dennis Burris. Moving into The Patio's space will be a new club operated by David and Maggie Lee, owners of Naked Tchopstix in Broad Ripple.

Arthur's Fresh Market on Hold

Disappointing news for those of us waiting for Marsh to break ground on the proposed Arthur's Fresh Market in the old Atlas space at 54th and College: The project is on hold indefinitely. This week's Indianapolis Business Journal reports that due to the poor financial performance and problems the corporation is facing, they've put the new concept market on hold. It's doubly sad since Federal courts refused to grant an injunction against them brought by North Carolina-based Fresh Markets, which means they're free to use of the name and concept. While the court case has caused some delay so far, it sounds like it hasn't been the only hold up.

Certainly, I recognize the business realities of proceeding with a seemingly-risky new expansion when their core grocery business is in trouble, but it seems so short sighted based on several factors:

1) Few people missed the recent New York Times article about the trouble the entire traditional grocery business is finding itself in. Traditional grocery stores are finding themselves in real financial trouble as consumers increasingly shop at multiple stores: the higher end grocery like Trader Joes, Whole Foods, or Wild Oats for specialty items, then all purpose and big box stores like Wal-Mart, Meier or SuperTarget for everyday items at better prices. The traditional chains like Marsh, Kroger and Safeway are having trouble across the country.

2) The Meridian-Kessler neighborhood is perfect for the high-end specialty food market. As the IBJ article points out, people from all of central Indianapolis used to shop at Atlas for specialty items. The average income increases every year and the area is expanding. For those of us in the neighborhood, it was just a great local grocery.

3) The booming residential market from south of Broad Ripple to downtown should be reason enough for a new grocery store to move into the area. O'Malia's serves downtown to some extent and there's the scary Kroger on 16th, but there's no real option for any of the large population in the the gentrifying Mapleton, Meridian Park, College Ave, Fall Creek, and Near Northside areas. Maybe the large chains feel these residents already trek to the northside for their food shopping, but I'd sure like an option.

There's no question Marsh's core grocery business isn't working which seems like a prime time to be looking to the future and what customers increasingly want. When consumer trends change, I'd think it would be better to be in front of it. In the meantime, it looks like there are no plans to make good on the promised demolition of the three buildings in the old Atlas area. The site remains surrounded by a chain-link fence collecting garbage and graffiti. Let's hope that if Marsh keeps the project in the deep freeze that they at least do the right thing by the neighborhood and clean up the space.

Saturday, October 22, 2005

The Fat Fighter...Mmmm. Deepifying!

From Time Magazine's list of 5 New Things that will blow your mind. Well, I'm not sure about that so much, but this one was interesting. I'm all for making deep frying more healthy, but only if it doesn't defeat the whole purpose of putting that crispy, yummy coating placed there by the grace of God and hot grease to begin with. This may work with fish sticks, but the real test will be a chicken fried steak. (Or, better, yet, Grady Spears' Chicken Fried Fois Gras.) Well, that and the whole "intestinal distress" issue involved with those other fat substitutes. Time on the The Fat Fighter:

In the twilight of the Atkins age, people are realizing that while carbs may still be an enemy, fat is no friend. Does that mean you have to ditch the deep fryer? Maybe not. Proteus Industries of Gloucester, Mass., has developed a technique to extract proteins from animal muscle, creating a coating for chicken nuggets, fish sticks and other foods that prevents excess oil from penetrating beyond the breading or batter. The food looks similar on the outside, but it's not greasy on the inside. That translates into real fat busting: the overall content in fish sticks, for instance, goes from 14 g to as little as 4 g—a 70% drop. Proteus' process is making its debut in fish sticks from the company's local collaborator, Good Harbor Fillet. Someday, it may be used by home cooks as well.

Friday, October 21, 2005

Buco di Beppo: Just How Authentic Are They?

As we learn in this excellent analysis, not very if you follow their billing as authentic Southern immigrant cuisine. Without excerpting the entire post, I can only say that the folks over at Accidental Hedonist did some reasonable research and have some interesting things to say about the histories of some Italian classics -- and how most of them are, well, not Southern. And not nearly as snarky as I usually am. Go read this post!

Thursday, October 20, 2005

Thursday Round Up

Ahhh, fall and it's turning cold -- time for more cozy evenings at great downtown local spots like Old Point Tavern and the Chatterbox. Last night, I plowed through my daily mound of newspapers (New York Times food section was all "Rachel Ray", Ugh) sipping a cold beer and eating a hot meal at OPT outside as late evening faded into night. Mass Ave was packed at 7:oo p.m. with foot traffic, tourists, diners and shoppers. People browsed in stores like At Home in the City while restaurants like OPT, MacNivan's, and Bazbeaux were packed with folks trying to make 8:00 p.m. curtain times. From my corner table vantage point, I could see people in suits hurrying home, some stopping in for an afterwork drink, and others walking dogs after a long day away. Last night, my little corner of Mass Ave. could have been almost any other city in the country -- a smaller, quieter neighborhood of New York City, for example -- and it made me somehow feel more at home in Indiana.

With no travels recently, here's a blog round-up for Thursday:

Scott Hutcheson is just back from the exclusive Hotel Bel-Air where he was treated to the kitchen table and some primo celebrity watching!

A Woman on Wine: Local sommelier Lisa Cunningham challenges us to remember our best food smells -- and practice drinking that wine!

And the Accidental Hedonist reminds us that there's no such thing as a pretty good omelet. Also, a winter squash recipe the Hedonist actually likes, and a knockout looking pumpkin milkshake recipe.

Menu Notes: Ahhh, it's fall and the butternut squash maple soup is back at Oakley's Bistro! And in the fine tradition of "What's for Supper?", Chef Regina (instead of Grandpa) tells us what's for supper of at R Bistro this week.

  • Soup of the day
  • Proscuitto, ricotta salata and spinach strudel
  • Local leaves with Gala apples, red grapes, toasted pecans, and Danish blue cheese tossed in poppy seed dressing
  • Alaskan halibut cake with house-made tartar sauce
  • Mixed leaf salad with mustard balsamic dressing
  • Pan-seared scallops with pumpkin risotto and sage butter
  • Slow-braised duck leg served with Beggermana's stew and onion ginger chutney
  • Medallions of beef shoulder in bourbon butter sauce with roasted sweet potatoes and apples and fennel slaw
  • Butternut squash, goat cheese and spinach stack
  • White chicken chili with tomato salsa
  • Camembert trifle with black mission figs
  • Ginger pear crisp with vanilla ice cream
  • Apple custard tart
  • Chocolate Truffles
  • Mont St. Francis goat cheese with fruit and biscuits

Wednesday, October 19, 2005

Wine Warehouse Fire Ruled Arson

Not surprisingly, investigators have ruled arson was the cause of the major file in Vallejo, California destroying a significant amount of Northern California wine. Some smaller wineries lost an entire years inventory while other, larger, vintners lost libraries and special collections. The SF Chronicle is reporting that several people are under investigation including at least one of the tenant companies and the partnership that leased the warehouse. More in today's Chron.

Tuesday, October 18, 2005

NUVO's "Best" of 2005

I was going to make some notes on this it's just too depressing. And then I saw that 11 a.m. Air Raid beat me to it. Just as well. At least only one of us has to be depressed over the fact that NUVO readers think Red Lobster is one of the best seafood restaurants in town. Plus, over at Hoosiers Ate My Brain, we have the MacNiven's rejection which I think is one of the funniest things I've heard in a really long time.

Farmer's Markets Winding Down

A reminder from the Star. Only two weeks left for the downtown Farmer's Market.

Time is running out to shop at the Farmers Market on Market Street outside the City Market in Downtown Indianapolis. There are only two days left: Wednesday and Oct. 26.

While some of the vegetables available in the summer and early fall are gone, vendor Vince Welage, who sells tea cookies, said the market still includes fresh-baked pastries, apples and cider, fresh vegetables, mushrooms, flowers and specialty items such as shagbark syrup. The market is open from 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.

Monday, October 17, 2005

Fleming's Steak and Wine

The rumors are true! We have a new Fleming's Steak House and Wine Bar on the north side in the old Gateway space (by Lulu's). I've heard good things about them so far -- 100 wines by the glass, wine dinners, and a contemporary take on the classic steak house. And I *love* a good room. I've heard the food is terrific, but haven't yet been. Look for more soon.

Sunday, October 16, 2005

Dining for Dollars

You know me, I never object to dining for charity. If I can write a check, be fed, and support a good cause, I'm usually all over it. And it's been busy in the past few weekends.

Last Saturday, I attended a lovely dinner party in a private home where the hosts donated their time, home, and not inconsiderable culinary talent and charged guests a fee for donation to the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation. What a great idea! It was a lovely evening in charming company with people I like, and I learned how to make traditional Vietnamese spring rolls as a bonus.

Opera opening weekend! With conflicts for last Friday's opener of The Pearl Fishers, a friend and I changed our tickets to Sunday and swapped the opening dinner for the opening brunch. Brunch is hard for me before opera since I usually drink too much champagne and end up napping through the second act. But for opening weekend, we made the sacrifice! And good food and wonderful company -- it was a small group so we really had a chance to have some nice conversations with fellow I/O supporters.

This past Friday, I was happy to attend Harvest, the second annual food and wine event benefiting Second Helpings. With a great turnout from most of Indy's top culinary professional and a vast array of terrific wines, Harvest was once again a huge success. Congratulations of Second Helpings and here's to another great year.

Upcoming? Well, I know I'll have to attend Kahn's Diamond in a Rough Sale, 6:30-9:00 p.m., Thursday, October 27 at the Montage. It's one of my favorite events of year and while it's not for charity, I'm sure I'll come away having just as generously "donated". Tickets are $20 in advance (Jim always feeds his customers well) available at Kahn's.

Friday, October 14, 2005

Evil Chocolate Pumpkinheads

I'm not allowed to go to stores like Godiva or South Bend Chocolate Company for this very reason. I buy chocolate. In this case, I was sucked in by the free sample! So, here you go -- my absolute, better-than-bad-sex, favorite new food in the world: The Pumpkinhead.

What, you may ask, is a pumpkinhead exactly? Well, it would take just the sort of sickos who work for a chocolate company to come up with it.

Caramel corn, dipped in white chocolate, dipped in pumpkin flavored icing. Pretty much the world's most perfect food. Really. $4.99 for 1/2 pound bag at the South Bend Chocolate Company. Evil evil evil. Just in time for Halloween.

Significant Losses in Wine Warehouse Fire

Yesterday, the San Francisco Chronicle began reporting on Wednesday's fire at the Wines Central warehouse in Vallejo, California. The paper reported it as "whole vintages lost." As winemakers, insurers, and investigators dig through what's left, it now seems the damage and loss is much worse than originally reported. Not only are whole vintages gone but the the inventories of some small winemakers may be completely lost. The paper has more today.

Wines Central, a large concrete and steel warehouse at the former Mare Island naval facility was once a storage warehouse for submarines. With three-foot concrete walls, it was considered secure and controlled and in recent years, had become a mega-warehouse for many small Northern California wine makers. For many, it housed their entire vintages. For others, their entire histories. Almost every winery in Napa stored something there from a pallet (56 cases) to entire supplies. Some companies uses the warehouse for non-wine products -- you probably won't find much Niebaum-Coppola pasta sauce on the market for a while -- it was in the warehouse. Other occupants sold secure storage space to private collectors.

Some of the most devastated, though, will be the small winemakers who may have lost an entire vintages or an the entire year's production. Some lost everything -- while larger winemakers may have lost as much as 25-50% of their yearly production. Still other winemakers lost no current inventory but are mourning the loss of their historical vintages. Historical vintages are important and most vintners store wines from previous years to keep tabs on how their grapes and wine techniques age. History can be an important part of how wine is made -- and much of this history for many wineries in Napa is now lost.

In the overall scheme of the wine business, the fire isn't expected to have a big impact. It wasn't enough wine to make a dent in prices or the economy. However, for many small houses it's just another tough break in a very tough business. Authorities are investigating whether the fire was arson.

Wednesday, October 12, 2005

Local Breweries Bring Home National Honors

I wonder what it means when I find more interesting and relevant food news in the Indianapolis Business Journal than any other local news outlet. I'm not going to question. In the meantime, the IBJ Daily reports Brugge Brasserie, Oaken Barrel Brewing Company, and Ram Brewery won two silver medals and a bronze at the Great American Beer Festival. It's good to see Brugge continuing to brew great beer -- because their service and unpolished front-of-house manners have kept me away. (Oh, now, if you can't say something nice don't say anything...yes, well. I always sucked at that.) From IBJ Daily:

Beers from three local brew pubs claimed silver and bronze medals at the 2005 Great American Beer Festival Competition in Denver, a national contest of more than 2,300 beers in 69 categories. Broad Ripple's Brugge Brasserie brewery took a silver medal for its Tripel de Ripple in the Belgian Abbey Ale category. In the Belgian Wheat category, Oaken Barrel Brewing Co. in Greenwood won a silver medal for its Alabaster Wit. And a bronze medal was given to the downtown Indianapolis Ram Brewery of Washington-based Big Horn Brewing Co. for its Detonator Doppelbock.

Monday, October 10, 2005

Fill in the ____

Overheard the other day while I was buying wine glasses at Steinmart: Two well-dressed middle-aged women were talking about cooking for their husbands. One was lamenting that she and her husband didn't cook anymore since they ended up eating it all and gaining weight. Next thing I heard was: "First you take two cans of Dinty Moore beef stew..." -- I missed some in the middle and she finished -- "...and ketchup on top. It's really good!"

I'm not sure I really want to know what goes in the middle of that recipe.

Sunday, October 09, 2005

Vizion Retools -- Cibo Coming Soon

While I'd heard about this some time ago, I guess it's public now that Vizion Restaurant at 82nd and Allisonville is actually closed for remodeling. Every restaurant has to stay afloat -- it's kind of a requirement for owners, investors, and well, people who want to get paid. And for Vizion, it looks like it was time for a total concept change. Of course, in Carmel and north Indy, high-end Italian seems to work. Don't get me started on what it says that so many people are willing to eat bad pasta and chicken parm and so many good chefs are willing to cook it. A few do great food -- and sadly, most people can't tell the difference. So, give the customers what they want. I'm so glad I'm not in the restaurant business in this city -- I'd be too sick to eat.

Coming Soon: Cibo. Ristorante Italiano. I'm sure it will be a huge success.

Saturday, October 08, 2005

A Food Blog to Add

There are a million food blogs out there covering restaurants, wine, recipes, chefs, and all manner of things food. But I like the Accidental Hedonist. Don't we all sometimes feel a little...accidental?

Wednesday, October 05, 2005

Harvest for Second Helpings

The faaaabulous Brian Fowler over at Olinger Distributing reminded me today about Harvest, a fall benefit for Indianapolis' hard working Second Helpings. Their site doesn't have a direct link to the flyer, but hit "special events" and choose Harvest for more information:

The event is next Friday, October 14 at the Murat Egyption Room. This tasting features 350 wines and food from some of Indy's top chefs. (It was a huge success last year!) And best of all, 100% of the ticket price goes directly to fighting hunger and raising awareness right here at home.

Participating Chefs Include:

Karl Benko with Peterson's
Sam Brown with Second Helpings, Inc.
Rick DeLeon with Levy Restaurants
Dave Foegley with St. Elmo Steak House
Greg Hardesty with Elements
Derrick Jones with Ruth's Chris Steak House
Steve Keneipp with The Classic Kitchen
Mark Marlar with Dunaway's

Henri Najem with Bella Vita
Ryan T. Nelson with Oceanaire
Steve Oakley with OAKLEY'S bistro

Tickets are $50 and can be purchased at the Murat Centre Box Office at Ticketmaster or by calling (317) 231 -0000. For mor information please contact Second Helpings at (317) 632-2664 ext. 23.

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

Downtown Restaurant Moves

Last week's IBJ (week of Sept 26) featured a roundup of upcoming restaurant changes and additions in downtown Indy. Chain sandwich shop Au Bon Pain is moving into the closed Roly Poly space on Meridian just off the circle in early 2006. Hardwicke's has also closed and the shop will span both spaces with entrances on both the Meridian Street and Circle sides. Jimmy John's will go in the former Bad Ass Coffee Company space just down the down the block. Look for a co-branded Noble Roman's and Tuscano's restaurant to open on west Market by the capitol. And it looks as if another nightclub may move into the old Nicky Blaine's space in the King Cole building (I hope they can get the cigar small out of there!) Last but not least, and with no formal announcements, I hear at least one new restaurant has been chosen to go in the space at the bottom on the new Simon headquarters building along with the other coffee vendors and cafe spots they're closing now.

Monday, October 03, 2005

Posting Verification

It's inevitable -- spammers hit blogs pretty regularly now. So, I've turned on the verification feature for posting. It just means that when you post, you have to enter in the word shown so the system knows you're a real person and not a spam bot.

New Indy Food Links

Over the past few weeks, I've noticed a couple of new food sites trying their hand at helping Indianapolis food and wine fans sort through our growing restaurant scene and wine event calendars.

IndyEthnicFood.com: Recommended by John Clark at IndyBuzz, this site catalogs and rates local ethnic food eateries and markets. I'm a self-proclaimed ethnic food snob, so I can't say what I think of this site, good or bad, since I haven't had a chance to play around with it yet. Give it a shot and let me know what you think.

LocalWineEvents.com: Kahn's now appears to have outsourced its calendar to a web site that keeps track of what's happening in your local wine world. The only catch with sites like these is that they're only as good as the organizations posting to them. In this case, it seems like it's mainly Kahn's and Chateau Thomas winery, two of the most prolific wine educators in town. The local events are listed in a drill down Indianapolis link.

Sunday, October 02, 2005

R Bistro Wine Dinner -- Oct 11

I missed plugging the Oceanaire Clambake which I heard went very well, but here is the latest in what looks to be a wonderful event. If you haven't tried Chef Regina's creative menu using mainly local ingredients, you've been missing out. Here's the info:

Please join us on October 11th for our Fall Fine Wine Dinner

We will begin at 6:30 PM with passed hors d' oeuvre and Kuentz-Bas Pinot Blanc from Alsace. Then we will follow with:

Gravlax-style Alaskan Salmon and Alaskan Halibut with mustard sauce and brown bread served with 2002 Chateau Graville-Lacoste, Graves; Blackcurrant Sorbet; Pan-seared Indiana Duck Breast with Lingonberry Cognac Sauce, Potato & Artichoke Cake and Sauteed Leeks served with 2003 Neyers Merlot, Conn Valley, Napa and 2002 Sang Des Cailloux, Vacqueyras; Saffron Pancake with Roasted Pears served with 2002 Meeker Vineyards Tutu Luna, Sonoma

$80.00 All Inclusive
Please call Daniel or Regina for reservations 317.423.0312