Chatham Tap: First Impressions

Mmm. New construction smell. That was my first thought when I popped in last week for dinner at Chatham Tap, the new place just opened on Mass Ave by Scholar's Inn and The Metro. It's nice to have another neighborhood eatery on Mass Ave, but be prepared for what Chatham Tap is -- and isn't. The room is new and clean with a great bar and good beers on tap but the food is average at best. Chatham wants to be an English pub but comes off as English pub lite, or maybe English pub Indiana-style. For flavor, they've decorated the bar over the TV with a few English football scarves. (It's like they said "hey, let's do what MacNivan's does but, you know, English, and without the weird food." What they missed is that the original food is one of the draws of MacNivan's.)

Other than the cute names for things like entrees and sandwiches on the menu (which feels like another MacNivan's rip-off), there wasn't anything particularly English about the food. At least not that I remember (which says something right there.) My salad was from a bag (and not a particularly generous or original large house salad for $8) with a drizzle of dressing from a squeeze bottle. (You'll have to order more on the side.) And if those pizzas were made in-house, they need a new pizza guy. My guess is they were the self-rising dough kind fresh off the restaurant supply truck. Burgers and chicken sandwiches were OK if dry. The best bet looked like the fish and chips.

Service and pricing kinks still need some work. (Some of the prices seemed a little high to me based on what you got and there were a few service snafus.) But it has potential for a good neighborhood bar if you're not looking for a particularly high-end meal although be ready for the prices. Good beers on tap (with bonus points for Bell's Oberon) and a nice bar space. And in that location, they'll do fine. Bonus points for opening in time for football season.

Oktoberfest, Bugg's and Football

Hey, can you keep the noise down a little? We went to Oktoberfest at the Ratskellar last night and my head hurts. Not clear if it's from all the beer or the screaming accordions of Polka Boy -- could be either. They're they only band I know with a keg *on stage* for the night. But it was a fine evening -- the very best use of a beer garden.

In the meantime, a few tidbits:

Bugg's Temple: I know, I *swore* I wasn't mentioning this renovated-church-restaurant-on-the-canal again until they actually opened. They've been dragging us along now for two years. But a bird told me that they're now saying they'll open in mid-October. I'll believe it when I actually see it.

Bar Menus: I've been meaning to put together a list of great bar menus and this week someone reminded me of one of the best -- The Bar at the Canterbury. It's worth a stop in to one of my favorite bar rooms in town with comfy couches, an old school feel, and big windows to watch the street.

Purdue Tailgating: And a big shout-out to the Purdue tailgaters heading up for today's big game. The menu I'm most jealous of? Today, one group is having battered and fried catfish, hushpuppies, and jambalaya. Makes me want to scrounge a ticket.

Top Chef, Noodles, and Art!

Brian Says Good-bye on Top Chef: Oh, Brian, is it really true that chefs don't view trout as seafood? I'm sure we'll hear more on the success of the braising in the Thursday blogs, but it was clearly time to say "so long" to San Diego Oceanaire chef Brian Malarkey. Next week look for the Top Chef finale face off between Dale, Casey, and Hung.

So long, Nothing But Noodles: Cory reports all locations, including the popular one by the IUPUI campus, seem closed. Makes you wonder what went wrong, especially since that location by campus is very crowded all the time and everything in there seems to be working (even the nasty Chinese buffet.)

More Progress at Meridian: Finishing touches seem to be in the works at Meridian (nee Dodd's Townhouse with renovations) to be helmed by Chef Dan Dunville (nee Ruth's Chris, nee Dunaway's, nee Broad Ripple Steakhouse.) No website yet, menu preview, or word from Dunville.

Art for the Sake of Food! I recently spent a lovely morning with Chef Neal Brown hiking around Indianapolis with a camera in the rain. We were looking at art. From iMOCA to the Love sculpture, Chef Brown is creating an entire wine dinner based on contemporary art. Look for more details in the next week, but put Oct 29 on your calendar for a mulit-course art feast at L'explorateur! (Dinner will benefit iMOCA.)

Del Taco Quickie

Just a quickie today from Cory at Property Lines. He reports Del Taco wants to open 16 new fast food locations in Indy. (They are looking for franchise owners, so this is very early stage.) Del Taco wouldn't have been my first choice for new taco chain, but I still stop at Taco Bueno by the airport in Oklahoma City every time I'm there.

Baker's Edge and Game Day Brownies

A couple of weeks ago, I judged Indianapolis Dine magazine's Best Of... competition with the fabulous Emily Griffin, pastry chef, entrepreneur, and inventor of the edge brownie pan. Her Indianapolis-based company, Baker's Edge, which she owns with her husband, manufactures and distributes the brilliant and innovative pan designed to give every brownie piece edges. Honestly, why didn't anyone think of this sooner! For those of us who *love* the chewy outsides of brownies, this pan offers at least two edges on every piece!

What better way to try out the pan than to use Emily's fantastic brownie recipe (one of several that come with the pan, natch). What Colts fans don't need a batch of chocolaty chewy goodness for a game. I made a few modifications but got lucky -- all worked as it should -- and the high brown sugar content in her recipe gave all of the edges and even darker crust. Delish! Order the Edge pan from Amazon.com or Baker's Edge directly.

Edge Lover's Chewy Edge Brownies

1 1/2 sticks of butter
5 oz unsweetened chocolate (I cheated and substituted cocoa. The rule is 3 tablespoons of unsweetened cocoa powder and 1 of oil equals 1 oz of unsweetened chocolate.)
1 cup sugar

1 1/4 cup brown sugar

4 eggs

1 1/2 tsps vanilla

1 1/4 cup flour

1/4 tsp salt

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips (I used chopped semisweet Ghirardelli chocolate from Trader Joe's)

(Instructions from Emily's recipe)

1. Preheat over to 375. Lightly spray pan with non-stick cooking spray.

2. Melt the baking chocolate in a bowl over a pan of bowling water melting the butter and chocolate, stirring occasionally until melted. Remove from heat. (Or, if you're using the cocoa substitution, mix cocoa and oil in a separate bowl, then cut butter into the mixture and microwave for 20 seconds, stirring until butter melts into the chocolate.)

3. Add sugar and brown sugar to the chocolate. Then add the eggs, one at a time. Then add the vanilla, the flour, and salt until combined. (Don't overmix.) Fold in the chocolate chips.

4. Spread evenly in the pan and bake for 40-45 minutes.

Three Latest and Best

Crepes, Brioche and Nutella: Petit Chou has quickly taken over as my favorite brunch spot in town, not only because of their perfect Broad Ripple location, but also because I love their menu! The crepes win me over every time. My latest favorites? Eggs, sunny side up in a crepe with Gruyere and brioche toast with nutella. This time of year, take your sunglasses and enjoy the patio.

Butternut Maple Soup at Oakley's: It's ba-aaack! If you haven't tried this sublime annual treat at Oakley's Bistro, where have you been? It's one of the single best things about fall in Indianapolis. And don't forget they sell it by the quart if you're already planning for Thanksgiving. (Shout out to the fabulous Lisa Cunningham.)

Dinner at Morton's: What is it about Morton's? Why don't I go more often? Is it the funky street entrance? The pokey stairs? The often absent or inattentive hostess/greeter? No matter. Even with the uninspiring entryway, I've always have a great time especially in their small private board room and warm, clubby bar (with those funky and wonderful art deco carved bar chairs). Unsurprisingly, a recent dinner was no different. After a fantasic meal with great company, I was reminded again that this often overlooked downtown steakhouse has a lot to offer. We enjoyed the standard fare -- great steaks and steakhouse favorites -- but with some welcome additions. My favorites? An ultra-fresh tuna tartare starter with creme fraiche and avocado, a nice change from the standard seared tuna appetizer; a classic iceberg wedge salad with tomato and bacon but with a pleasant twist -- Thousand Island, a salad dressing I've always loved even though it's out of style; and along with roasted potatoes, mushrooms and spinach, and huge asparagus, I loved the perfectly crisp french fries. (They were added after the CEO interviewed servers in all 75 restaurants and asked about the most requested menu item Morton's didn't have.) Add, of course, the excellent Allen Brothers USDA Prime steaks (strips and fliets for most of us). It was all topped off with their polished deserts including a thick chocolate "velvet" cake and their signature key lime pie. I could live without the formal server presentation of plastic-wrapped plates showing steaks and fresh seafood (although I did like the live lobster swaying around), but it was a lovely meal all topped off with a fine 2003 Beringer Private Reserve cabernet. Look for their happy hour bar special -- free mini steak sandwiches from 5-7 p.m. weeknights.

Questions questions

I love search logs. On weekends, when all you regular readers are home and away from your office computers, search engine traffic goes way up and some of the things you people are searching for is...well you're secrets are safe with me. It's not so much that I have answers (I usually don't) or that they'll find their way back here, but I love seeing what people are asking. Here's the most recent sampling:

*Where can I find inexpensive pectin for making jelly? Marsh or any major grocery store carries it in the baking aisle, usually in powder or liquid form.

*Report card between Chipotle and Qdoba? Why? Do you want to see who made more A's in science and English?

*Directions for roasting potatoes for 250 people: Right. Let me get someone right on that.

*How to make samosa with spring roll pastry? I get this one a lot. Sometimes it's also asking about phyllo dough. I can only imagine they find me because I screwed up samosas once and under a deadline opted for phyllo instead. It was a substitute but only a half-assed one.

*Indianapolis rib-eye slider snacks for super bowl: I like this one. Good to know somebody's thinking ahead. Go Colts!

*Places to hold a business meeting in Barcelona? Hm. I'm not sure about that one.

*Where to buy wine in Indianapolis on Sunday? Hahahahahahahaha!

Achatz, Letters, and Cookbooks

Grant Achatz Update: Ruhlman has an update on the latest cancer treatment. So far, so good.

Letters, We've Got Letters: A big shoutout to the Wine Canine for his letter in this week's IBJ pointing out the flaw in the victory for Indiana wine drinkers -- the bottle limit clause. Last month, a judge struck down two of the three sections of Indiana's wine shipping law allowing out of state wineries that are properly licensed to ship to Indiana wine consumers. But as Mark points out, it's not perfect. Some of you will need to watch out for that 24 case (216 liters) limit. Wineries will be.

Comedy Club for Sale: Just in case, you know, you're in the market for a large space with a stage suitable for music venues with a bar and grill next door. If so, you could be in luck. IBJ reports One-Liners on the south side is for sale.

A Glimpse Into Cookbooks: Many of you who know me personally know that professionally I've been in the cookbook industry for a long time. And like all editors and publishers, I'm always interested in what works. We know what doesn't, that's for sure. For a rare glimpse into how cookbook editors decide what you will find in stores (based soley on what's sold in the past and what they think bookstore gatekeepers will let you have a crack at), Publisher's Weekly has an article on what's working and where editors think the market might be headed next. These days, I get a lot of questions about whether a particular cookbook would be a success. The sad answer is usually "No." From PW:

Despite Tony Bourdain's smash success Kitchen Confidential, food memoir remains a tough sell. Editors struggle to get attention for their authors if they don't have their own TV shows. And readers want cookbooks with color photos, yet aren't willing to pay higher prices. On the upside, cookbooks focusing on locally grown and organic foods no longer appeal strictly to high-end readers. Chef cookbooks are out, simplicity is in. And there's still room for upmarket books that don't promise dinner in 30 minutes.

Help Me, Please, Find Mac and Cheese

I'm on a quest. Who in Indianapolis has the best macaroni and cheese? Traditional? Funky (Mmmm, Steve Oakley's pesto mac and goat cheese)? Baked? Custard? Crumbs on top? Where oh were to go for white comfort food in a baking dish?

Self-Chilling Bottles and Brazilian Food

I ran into a group of fellow foodies the other day and we were all remarking on how this time of year seems slow. While we wait for new openings and visits to a few new places, here's what's happening around the blog world.

A Bottle that Chills Itself? Several outlets are reporting that Coca-cola is working on a bottle that will keep the drink cold after the cap is opened. They'll have to go in special vending machines and early reports are they'll test market the new package with a Sprite drink in the UK late this year. Wow. If they can perfect this technology, can you imagine what will happen when the license it to the beer world? (Besides the koozy business collapsing.) Brilliant! (Via Slashfood)

Honeycake for the High Holy Days: Best parts of the Jewish Holidays? Why, the food, of course! Not only is honey symbolic of a sweet new year to come, but this scrumptious treat looks healthy and dripping with sweet honey goodness. More on the cake, memories, and a recipe from Cookthink. (via Slashfood)

Wine Cooler Trivia: Courtesy of Dr. Vino, who's taking a trip down memory lane: Which state was tops in wine cooler consumption over the 2nd and 3rd place states combined? (More about wine cooler/malt beverages and why they contain no wine at Dr. Vino.)

More Brazilian? Cory over at Property Lines reports on real estate leasing deals done which is why he often has early leads on proposed restaurants. Sometimes they happen. Sometimes they don't. But it's fun to speculate. His latest info? A new Brazilian-style grill will be going into the first floor of the former Zipper building. No estimated opening date but I'm guessing it will be well into next year.

Top Chef Final Four

The Final Four is set for the Top Chef Finale. And against all odds, locally trained ched Brian Malarkey is in. Malarkey, executive chef of The Oceanaire in San Diego, trained at our local outpost under chef Ryan Nelson. I shouldn't say "against all odds" since the four chefs still in the competition are there due to talent and hard work. This year's field was tougher than ever with some of the best young chefs in the US eliminated in early rounds. As far as reality shows go, this one has been an educational and fun ride. (The less intellectual and more midrift baring Survivor China premiers tonight.)

Final episode with the last four choosing the winner air October 3.

Wine Wednesday

What am I thinking about what I've been drinking?

Williams Selyem Central Coast Pinot Noir 2003: Last I checked, this well-known California pinot house had at least five different pinot noirs all sourced from various areas of the northern California and central California coast. I've tried three of the five now and not found a dud in the bunch. My current fave (compliments of friends who are sharing the bounty of a case with me) -- the central coast, 2003.

Joseph Phelps "Pastiche": I didn't catch the year on this, but Phelps has put out a bottle of their popular Rhone-style blend every year since the late 1990s. But maybe I liked it so much because I've been loving Rhones all year and this little baby is a great example of it. (Plus, I just don't care for a lot of Napa style red blends -- to dry and strange.) For this money, this little drinker is a knockout.

Next in the Reading Line: And in a slightly related wine note, Jeff over at The Good Grape has a great Q&A with Eric Arnold, an editor at Wine Spectator, about his new book, The First Big Crush: The Down and Dirty on Making Great Wine Down Under (Scribner, 2007). Arnold spent a crazy year working at a New Zealand winery, learning the business and drinking. A lot.

A Little Light Housekeeping

Sorry for the light posts lately, but the housekeeping list was starting to pile up.

Ads: Yes, I know, I don't like them either. But after some great traffic building this summer (thank you all!), it's time to do some benchmarking. This is a small first step. Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain, or rather, the ad in the margin. Except, you know, click on something every once in a while.

New Blogs: You know what I love about Hoosier bloggers? They blog on everything under the sun! And it's no surprise that food fits that bill. I've added two new blogs to the Indiana food blog list, Fork Indiana with commentary on the recent French Market and Everything Nagel. Those Nagels? They love food!

All Around the Town

Good thing the rest of you are getting out. I've been head down at the computer for the past few days. I escaped last night to the Distillery for $1 beer night. In the meantime, here's what I know -- mostly from you!

Same Store, New Name: When Jim Arnold and Joe Husar split the Kahn's business last spring, Joe kept the Carmel store as well as the Montage catering business. There was only one hitch -- he'd have to change the name. I'd heard over the weekend it had been announced, and that clever pooch, the Wine Canine, confirms it. The new name? Vine & Table. Look for the same tasty treats, cheeses, sushi, and wines. No website yet.

Cheeseburger, Cheeseburger: Over at Everything Nagel, it's a celebration of National Cheeseburger Day! Their list is pretty serious but I know the folks here will be able to help complete it. Mmmm. Cheesy, greasy goodness.

A Questionable Use of Space? In yet another example of our city fathers having no goal for the south side of downtown except for rental revenue, Cory over at Property Lines notes that the city has reach tentative agreement to lease the basement level of Union Station. The backers would be the same investors as 6 (the nightclub and restaurant helmed by Chef Tyler Herald). The old Iron Horse was before my time, but I'll be curious to hear more about what these investors have in mind. I haven't been to Union Station in years, and another nightclub won't change my mind. But I'm clearly not the target audience here.

Three Latest and Best

Sangria at Home: I'd been craving good sangria for a few weeks, and with the purchase of a huge "jar" complete with a spigot, I had an excuse. I also had two 1.5 litre bottles of a fine Gallo white Zinfandel that had somehow found their way into my home. Ironically, with its heavy sweetness, the pink wine made a great base for sangria although I added some additional reds including 3 bottles of the last of a case of Malbec. Then, I soaked pineapple, apples, lemons, oranges, and limes in vodka, then added all the standards (including the fruit and vodka, Cointreau instead of brandy, lots of fruit juice, and even a little sugar) and voila! The last of summer in a glass! Thanks to the 30 or so people who showed up to help me polish it off!

Hangover Food at Barcelona Tapas: Christy Speer nailed it in last month's Indianapolis Monthly review: Just appreciate this place for what it is, mine the menu for what's good, skip what's not (which is a lot), and love it for the fact that it's cheap and different. Thursday, I needed just what BT could give -- that big gooey order of goat cheese in red sauce with garlic bread, fried calamari and artichoke hearts, and churros with lots of cinnamon. A group of us shared about 10 small plates, caught up on news of the day, and assuaged our hangovers. Perfect.

Chocolate Eclairs at French Market: My favorite part of this time of year? The fantastic fairs and festivals! After delicious lamb pita and baklava at last weekend's Greek Fest, this past Friday featured all the treats that French Market had to offer (early, before they sell out!) For the best deal, buy wine by the bottle. And those extra tickets? Chocolate eclairs and cream puffs for breakfast the next morning!

More Updates and Openings

The Goose Cometh: Scheduled opening of The Goose, a gourmet market at 25th and Delaware in Fall Creek Place, is now in October. I run past there almost every day and have been watching for signs of life but so far, getting no love. (Location will be 2503 N. Delaware, which I believe will be the corner ground floor of the new contemporary condos at that intersection.) Either way, the owners are reporting they'll open on October 20. It's good to hear the early flapping of wings -- let's hope they make it.

Update: There's a counter inside now, and some signs of a buildout. All good news!

It's Official: Gastropubs Have Arrived: The current issue of Nation's Restaurant News has an interesting article on the national trend of gastropubs. They credit Mario Batali's Spotted Pig in NYC for starting the trend in the US when it opened in 2004. SF Chron food critic Michael Bauer takes some issue with NYC taking credit noting that gastropubs were opening across the country around that time. We can credit our own Brugge Brasserie in Broad Ripple with bringing the trend -- and some excelllent beers -- to central Indiana. They feature a very traditional gastropub menu (from duck confit to pommes frites) and Belgian-style beers. Fall is a perfect time for their Tripel Ripple and some of the other dark and heavy goodness they have on tap.

Congratulations to Neal and Lindy! Neal and Lindy are finally making it official. They're tying the knot this weekend with their two real children and third "child", the restuarant, L'Explorateur. They're closed tonight and tomorrow night for the festivities, but will reopen next week with a new menu for this lovely fall weather. Mazel tov to the newlyweds!

The Joys of Whiskey: The other evening a friend arrived at my house with a fine, fine bottle of single malt Scotch and with the weather change, the timing is perfect. And wouldn't you know it, plate o' scotch, Kate at Accidental Hedonist has come out with the announcement she's writing a book on whiskey. Luckily, she's sharing some of the joy in her travels and tastings via her blog. For her first installment, she offers a useful one: How to taste. If you've never enjoyed the smoky, peaty, and even sea-weedy flavors of a perfect Scotch or the sweet, grassy, darkness of a Kentucky Bourbon, then here is all you need to know to get started.

Diamond in the Rough Sale

If you get your fill of those big catalog tastings in the spring, Kahn's Diamond in the Rough sale is always a nice change. This is a catalog tasting that's more like a game than a sales pitch (although, hey, it's a sales pitch.) Jim Arnold sets up 75 or so wines for tasting that distributors are ready to liquidate at high discount. This includes wines that are overstocked, discontinued, have label changes (or problems), and even tag ends of small case lots from some of the smaller houses. (Ask me about the case of Vinum Red Dirt Red we scored last year.) Discounts are heavy and if you really look, you'll find some good buys. (A couple of years ago I scored a lovely case of Chateau Potelle Cab. The issue? All the back labels had come off.)

They sell by the case only and there's no guarantee that they'll be able to fill your whole order on some wines. But it's still great fun to look for your own diamond. It's also a great way to stock up for holiday parties or go with a wine drinking friend and split your order! This year's new venue should prove interesting (at the Kahn's store on Keystone) and your ticket price includes a good spread of food as well.

Diamond in the Rough wine sale
6:30-9:00 p.m.

@ Kahn's Superstore on Keystone

$20 in advance/$25 at the door.

Fall Has Fallen...Upon Us

Even before coffee, I cleaned up yesterday at the Broad Ripple Farmer's Market. It seems like there's been quite a bit of news lately about high farmer's market prices, but the totals on the gorgeous fall fruit and veg looked in line to me -- and cheaper than comparable quality at, say, Sunflower or Wild Oats. (The worst price I paid was the usurious $2 Hubbard and Cravens charged for a small cup of coffee. Note to self: Stop at Starbuck's on the way.)

Otherwise, I enjoyed a morning of greeting old friends and new, choosing lovely zucchini, squash, peppers, and tomatoes. (It's almost roasted pepper season!) There were lots of fall vegatables as well as the last of the summer fruit. (I saw a few lovely raspberries and peaches and the last of the corn.) But with fall in the air, it's almost time to start stocking up on summer favorites that freeze well like Capriole goat cheese and Jaquie's pesto. (I love the O'Banon goat cheese wrapped in macerated chestnut leaves for easy entertaining. The fact that goat cheese freezes beautifully is important once you realize that they're impossible to find in the winter in stores.)

Enjoy it while it lasts. The final day for the Broad Ripple Farmer's Market is October 27.

Meridian on Meridian: If you haven't seen it lately, the new Meridian restaurant, formerly Dodd's Townhouse on Meridian at Westfield looks beautiful -- at least from the outside. Originally targeting September, I haven't heard an updated opening date, but I'm guessing they'll debut this fall. With Chef Dan Dunville at the helm, the food should be as lovely as the renovation.

The Earth Has Moved: Finally. What? I meant for the Fresh Market at 54th and College. Construction equipment is on site and prepping the lot (although I never seem to see any workers actually *there* and working.) Still no word on a scheduled opening date.

Ramsey Sautes His Own...Bits: Where I come from, calf fries are a popular treat, but I'm not really sure it was the human equivalent Chef Gordon Ramsey had in mind. Reports from British tab The Sun (via TMZ) say that Ramsey recently had an accident in kitchen. Involving a bad burn. In a sensitive area. Ouch. Specifics from TMZ.

Three Latest and Best

Sakura, Still Going after All These Years: Had a fantastic meal at Sakura recently discovering much of their non-sushi menu. While I didn't try my favorite donbury, I did enjoy the udon with perfectly firm -- not soggy -- noodles, mushrooms, green onion, and crispy tempura on top. They are celebrating their 20th Anniversary and advertising a special gift for customers who come in next week!

Peterson's: Yes, I love this place. Goat cheese bruschetta. Watermelon chipotle "soup" amuse boche. Mushroom of the day (in this case, portobello topped with artichoke hearts and baked). Beef short ribs falling off the bone. Blue cheese au gratin potatoes. Little chocolates that come with the bill. That is all.

Nicole's Ice Cream: Nicole Anderson of H2O Sushi is selling her fantastic ice creams, sorbets, and baked treats (which happen to be gluten free) at the Broad Ripple Farmer's Market. Look for their signature oatmeal cookies (huge! $2) and ice cream in her amazing flavors (pints and quarts, $4.50/pint) through the end of October. Hopefully they have plans to sustain us through the winter. Today, they had hibiscus and pistachio ice cream and a plum sake sorbet that sounded so good! I settled on a pint of cucumber tarragon ice cream.

A Duke's Mixture for You

How busy have I been? I started this post three days ago. What was a post on a few interesting things has now become a catchall of miscellany. Whee!

IU Now Offers Food Anthropology Ph.D.: It was only a matter of time. IU has announced it will offer a Ph.D. in food social sciences to support the many studies happening today looking at how we eat, what we eat, and the long-term effects on society. They'll be partnering with the Bloomington Slow Food chapter as well.

Coursework covers prehistory and social change, human evolution and adaptation, health and nutrition, political economy and development, food production and environment, and food and identity. The department is also working to offer a cooperative student exchange with a similarly focused M.A. program at the University of London's School of Oriental and African Studies.

"Food connects a host of contemporary issues, ranging from obesity to ecological dead zones to fair-trade coffee to tourism," Brondizio said. "Students will have opportunities to work on a wide range of food-related topics in a department whose menu already offers courses on chocolate's history, primate diets, the social and environmental causes of famine, and many others."

More on the degree program.

Ashley's Opens; Ashley's Closes: Seems like they just opened a few months ago, and owners have announced that far northside eatery Ashley's Steak and Seafood is closing. It's a tough business out there. Via Property Lines.

Popcorn Lung? Consumer groups are now making sure we're avoiding microwave popcorn these days. The culprit? The artificial butter flavor which apparently causes lung problems in factory workers who handle it -- not kidding, called "popcorn lung". ConAgra announced this week it would change its formula (new, more artificial artificial butter flavor!) following a letter from doctors to the federal government drawing attention to the health concerns.

"We're out of that.": Kirts has been taking some flack over at Nuvo for his review of Bada Boomz. When he ordered several items they're supposed to known for (including the ribs), they were out. So he had the item they seem to be pushing hardest these days, the cheeseburger on a glazed doughnut. So, how big a deal is it when a restaurant is out of half their menu? Personally, I think it's a pretty big deal. It sends a message that they are having (at the most) possible financial difficulties or (at the least) management issues. Sure, everyone misses an occasional vendor delivery, but we all know some restaurants (and bars) tend to be out of half the menu on some days. Frank Bruni over at the NY Times' Diner's Journal has questions about the same issue, although he's been running into odder missing pieces -- like bottled water and iced tea. (As he says: How can a place run out of iced tea?) I know my nomination for local restaurant most often out of half of what a customer orders. What's yours?

Today at Williams-Sonoma

Or, rather, how I lazed around on my Labor Day. On the way to the movies at the art cinema, I had a few minutes to kill so I wondered down to Williams Sonoma. All summer I've been dying for an ice cream and sorbet maker and had decided against one more kitchen appliance. But there it was today -- at Williams Sonoma, the 1.5 qt small Cuisineart with a bonus extra work bowl -- all for $60. I'm so good -- I walked away and bought a new pasta fork (the wooden kind) and an egg timer instead. I may think I need the ice cream maker but I *really* needed the new egg timer. (The egg timer is the boil in the pot kind that changes color when your eggs are soft, medium, or hard boiled. I always undercook my hard boiled eggs resulting in soft to medium boiled eggs which kind of gross me out.

I was drawn to the sea salt "sampler" with small tins of their black, red, pink and flake finishing salts. I'm tempted to have a salt tasting the next time I have people over so we can all get a great handle on the real textures of these finishing salts. But I already have so many kinds including my favorite chardonney oak barrel smoked sea salt. I'm starting to border on more salt than I'll ever use.

What else did I see? W/S is finally carrying Riedel stemware and accessories like decanters in addition to their own lines. And you can now get a mix for pretty much everything that you're supposed to learning how to cook in the first place. They have lots of ridiculous dipping oils with some pretty bizarre additions (like pumpkin seed and blue cheese), and a million pseudo-ethnic simmer sauces and curries. And it's fall -- if you need autumnal towels, table linens or dishes, it's the place to be.

Three Latest and Best

Smelt at The Oceanaire! Now there's some upper midwestern food I can get behind. It may not be on the menu, but Chef Ryan Nelson has a fantastic supply of fresh smelt in at The Oceanaire. We munched on the yummy little fried fish from head to tail. If they're not on the menu, ask.

Portabello Mushroom Fries: Love fried mushrooms? Wait until you have these perfectly crispy portabello mushroom slices, breaded in panko, ginger, rosemary and more then fried to crunchy perfection. Top it all off with a thick horseradish sauce and you have the perfect combo. All at Peterson's.

Pretzel Rolls and Fried Biscuits: My first fried biscuits of the summer! Had lunch at Chancellor's (at the University Place Hotel) the other day. The best treat? The pretzel bread and fried biscuits on the table -- complete with thick apple butter. They'll only give you one of each so ask for more!

Two Minute Warning: OK, more like a smaller, one minute warning, but a warning none-the-less. Chancellor's is an oasis of civility on a bustling campus and perfect for a business lunch, but a few issues will keep them off the "top notch" list for me -- for now. After being blown away by the wonderful light sweetness and incredible texture of the tomato watermelon gazpacho at a tasting downtown, I tried it, knowing it was a signature dish. Sadly, it was a thick, deep red concoction with tomato seeds and almost none of the fabulous watermelon flavor I remembered. Sandwiches and salads are big -- but expect a liberal interpretation. My "Cuban" was merely pork, cheese, and a few dill pickle slices on overtoasted French bread. (Delicious but impossible to eat without crumbling it everywhere. Not great in a business suit.) Our other issue was a ... well, a fragrant one. The expediter who brought our food had the most pungent BO I've ever smelled on a server. It was thick (clothing and person) and lingered long after he'd brought our food. I was pretty surprised that a manager hadn't sent him home to clean up and change! Once the air cleared, we were able to continue our meal, but everyone at the table commented on the extra aroma -- and not from our food! Don't forget to have them validate your parking.